Modern Palate Wine Advice

These days, Organic wines have become a big part of our market. There are specific sections in the government liquor stores and better private liquor stores as well. Organic wine can be classified in different ways but basically it refers to the grapes which have been grown without the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, fungicides and herbicides.  Every country has different regulations for organic wines but the basic idea is the same.  In Canada, for instance, to put the phrase “made with organic grapes” only 70% of the juice inside the bottle has to come from organic grapes.  To be labelled “organic” the wine must have a minimum of 95% of organically grown grapes.  Because there is no internationally regulated definition of organic, there is no guarantee as to how organic your wine actually is.  On the flip side, there are many wineries around the world that are making wine organically but do not feel the need to be certified. They have their own reasons for not being certified. Some do not want the added costs and bureaucracy of registering. Others may disagree with their government’s standards. It can also be a marketing decision. Whatever the case, in countries with organic regulation, these wineries are not allowed to use the word “organic” on their labels.

I am all for organic farming.  Protecting our environment is something that we all should be concerned about.  Farming Organically is much more difficult and these grape growers should be commended for what they do.  All of this being said, the question is do organic grapes make better wine?  Well, that’s a tough one and the argument is one that could go on for a while.  What I will say is that there are some excellent organic wines and there are some excellent non-organic wines.  It all comes down to where the grapes are from and what the winemaker does with them. All of the products in this issue can be found in the organic section of the liquor store.

Pares Balta is a winery in Spain that has been using ecological practices for many years but has been certified organic since 2004.  They even have a flock of sheep used to fertilize the soils and beehives to encourage pollination.  Pares Balta Brut Cava, NV ($19.99  #366872) is made in the traditional champagne style using the traditional Cava grapes.  (Parellada, Macabeo and Xarel-lo.  Don’t worry, I won’t ask you about them later.)  Toasty notes on the nose coupled with fresh pear and green apple.  Delightfully bubbly in your mouth with crisp citrus and apple flavours giving way to a light, soft and refreshing finish.  This is a great sparkling wine for the better price.

Torrontes is a white grape grown almost exclusively in Argentina.  In fact, I’ve never had a Torrontes from anywhere else, but they are out there, just not in our market.  Michel Torino Estate “Cuma” Organic Torrontes, 2008 ($13.99  #213389) displays classic Torrontes flavours of rose, orange peel and peaches.  Floral on the nose but showing richness on the palate.  Peach flavours pair with all kinds of citrus, including lemon, ruby grapefruit and tangerine.  Fresh acidity and a long, lean finish round out this wine that is well suited for an afternoon on the patio.

Bonterra is one of the first major California wineries to institute organic and sustainable winegrowing.  Bonterra Chardonnay, 2007 ($19.99  #342436) comes from the Mendocino County on the North Coast of California.  Although this wine is oak aged it favours a more classical Chardonnay style which focuses more on the flavours of the grape instead of big oak barrel flavours.  Tropical aromas with a bit of lemon, honey, vanilla and toasted almonds.  Flavours of lemon and pineapple with a refreshing minerality and slight creaminess and a crisp, tart finish.  Think about this one the next time you are barbecuing seafood.

I do love Chianti and now there is an organic one available in BC.  The Cecchi family has been making wine since the late 1800′s and very committed to ensuring that the technology employed in the entire production chain is compatible with protecting the environment.  Made from organically grown grapes Cecchi “Natio” Chianti, 2007 ($16.95  #106682) has intense fresh fruit black fruit flavours with earthy notes and hints of spice.  A well balanced palate with soft flavours of cherry, blueberry and plum.  The main grape, Sangiovese, has plenty of acidity to be a match with a wide variety of foods.  Softer and lighter Chianti’s are my favourite “go to” food wine when everyone at the table has ordered different dishes.

Many years ago when I was getting serious about wine I was quite sceptical about organic wines.  When I learned that this amazing producer was organic, it changed my whole way of thinking.  Michel Chapoutier makes wine up and down the Rhone Valley in France as well as the south of France, Australia and Portugal.  I want to talk specifically about a wine from the Crozes Hermitage region in the Northern Rhone Valley. Crozes Hermitage produces good quality red wines from Syrah and white wines from Marsanne and Roussanne. M. Chapoutier “Les Meysonniers” Crozes Hermitage, 2006 ($26.99  #131078) is the red version and is dominated by bright red fruit and blackcurrant aromas with a little hint of violet.  The mouth is lush and pleasing with flavours of stewed cherries, vanilla and cigar box.  The tannins are fine and generous leading the way to a long rich finish.  Great to drink now but would benefit from a couple of years aging.

Juniper Green London Dry Organic Gin ($39.99 #617068) is the world’s first and only organic gin.  Organic grain, pure spring water and all organic botanicals go into producing this dynamite spirit.  I like this gin for the simplicity of the flavours.  Many of the gins that we see feel that more botanicals make for a better product.  Juniper Green proves that this theory isn’t necessarily true.  When I drink Juniper Green and tonic I prefer a lemon to a lime as the lemon seems to lift the flavours of the gin.  Oh, and if you want to go all the way and use organic tonic water, don’t chill it as it can kill it’s effervesce.

We had a great Rosé tasting last week.  Thanks got to all of those that attended.  We won’t be doing a tasting in August but will be back in late September for your wine education needs.  I’ll let you know once I’ve chosen the date(s) and theme.

Enjoy the organics and I’ll be back in 2 weeks.

Cheers,

Josh

http://www.paresbalta.com/

http://www.micheltorino.com.ar/

http://www.bonterra.com/

http://www.cecchi.net/

http://www.junipergreen.org/

In June of 2005, while working at Fifteen, I had the privilege of attending Vinitaly in Verona, Italy.  Vinitaly is one of the largest wine exhibitions in the world and takes place every April.  By comparison, The Vancouver Playhouse Wine Festival is one of the largest in North America with around 25,000 attendees.  Last year Vinitaly saw more than 150,000 visitors.  I’m not here to promote Vinitaly, but I do want to talk about the vineyard areas that are accessible from the city of Verona.

Geographically we are looking at the north-east of Italy.  The large region is known as Veneto with the capital city being Venice.  Veneto is home to 19 different wine sub-regions with some being larger producers than others.  Today I want to talk a little about 3 regions that, by law, produce distinctly different types of wine.

Let’s start with a little bubbly.  Prosecco is a white grape widely grown around the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene and is used to create a light, crisp and youthful style of sparkling wine.  Made in a different way than Champagne, Prosecco is not meant to age and should be drunk very young.  Bottega Prosecco “Vino dei Poeti” Spumante DOC, NV ($19.99  #95711) is fresh and fragrant with aromas of apple, pear and honeysuckle.  Dry and crisp on the palate, the green apple and citrus flavour your mouth as the bubbles lead you to a clean and refreshing finish.  Also check out issue Number Five where I talked about Mionetto Il Prosecco and its sweeter brother Mionetto Il Moscato.  There is lots of Prosecco available in Western Canada, so get out there and have fun with Italian bubble.

The region of Soave is one that produces only white wines.  Garganega and Trebbiano are the predominant grapes here and make wines that are dry and refreshing.  When I was in Verona we made a trip to the Pieropan winery which has been producing wines in Soave since the 1860′s.  In the early 1930′s they were the first producer to use the name Soave on their label.  Upon my return back to BC I found that the Pieropan wines weren’t available… that was until just recently.  Pieropan Soave Classico, 2007 ($24.99  #18804) is classy and elegant with a floral nose with citrus notes.  Crisp and dry with vibrant acidity and a beautiful lemon lime finish.  Generally Soave wines are not meant to be aged but when I was there we tried a Soave Classico from the late 80′s (’87 I think) and it amazed everyone in the room.

Right beside the white wine region of Soave is the region of Valpolicella which produces only red wines.  There are three native grapes that make up the Valpolicella blend and are listed in order of percentage of use in the wines, Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara.  Basic Valpolicella is light and youthful and should be enjoyed as such.  Masi “Bonacosta” Valpolicella Classico, 2007 ($16.99  #285585) has a beautiful bouquet of violets and red roses coupled with cherry, cinnamon and clove.  Bright fruit flavours on a palate that is medium bodied with fine tannins and a lean refreshing finish.  Where Valpolicella is the lightest style produced here, Amarone della Valpolicella is the heaviest.  Amarone della Valpolicella is made from the same grapes but this time they are partially dried out.  Basically, the grapes are harvested and allowed to dry, traditionally on straw mats.  This process is called appassimento or rasinate (to dry and shrivel) in Italian and concentrates the remaining sugars and flavours.  The concentrated juice is then fermented into a dry wine with a full body and ripe raisiny characteristics.  Amarone wines are prized for their flavour, structure and agility.  This being said, Amarone comes with a price tag to match as the wines start around $38 in the BC market.  A good starting point for Amarone is Bolla Amarone della Valpolicella, 2005 ($48.99  #352757). A floral, nutty and spicy nose with big flavours of raisins, prunes and stewed cherries on the palate. Full bodied and firm, with big ripe tannins, and a smooth easy finish.  This is a great introduction to what Amarone is all about.  Valpolicella Ripasso is a style that falls between these two wines. Ripasso is made from basic Valpolicella and is fermented with the grape skins that are left over after making Amarone.  The result is a medium bodied and full flavoured wine that that is less expensive than Amarone and has less of a need to be aged.  I’ve often referred to Ripasso as “working man’s Amarone”.  Tommasi Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso, 2006 ($29.99  #566844) has good blackberry, raisin and pepper flavours with a bit of minerality.  Full bodied intensely spiced cherry flavours with firm tannins and a good, meaty texture.

Often I get asked what my favourite wine is.  That question is pretty much impossible to answer as it all depends on the mood, surroundings, people, food….whatever.  That being said there is one wine from Veneto that I would have to put in my bag of overall favourites.  Allegrini Palazzo della Torre, 2005 ($29.99  #466011) meaning “Palace of the Tower” in english is made in the Valpolicella region and is a blend of Corvina, Rondinella and a little bit of Sangiovese.  30% of the grapes have been dried out in the Amarone style, fermented separately and then added to the rest of the wine. Aromas of currant and black fruits blend with chocolaty notes.  The palate follows through with ripe, chocolate-coated tannins, a full rich body and a long, tasty finish.  The wine is drinking great now but will age for a couple of years.  Palazzo della Torre may not be to everyone’s liking but it sure does the trick for me.

We’re doing a Rosé tasting next Wednesday July 29th.  There are only a couple of spots left so let me know if you’re interested.  If all goes well then I’ll be offering the tasting on 2 different days in the fall.  Maybe a Sunday and then Wednesday…Or something along those lines.  I’ll gauge your response at next week’s tasting.

I hope you enjoy the wines of Veneto and I’d be happy to hear of your favoutites.

Cheers,

Josh

http://www.masi.it/

http://www.tommasiwine.it/

I can only assume that you’ve noticed the growing number of wines now coming with a twist off cap.  Historically you would only see a screw cap on the cheapest and lowest quality or “jug” wines.  Today we’re getting all kinds of high quality wines sealed with a twist.  Also known as the “Stelvin Closure”, the brand name of screw cap that seems to be the most popular.  Of course, cork is the classic wine seal, but its popularity is now dwindling.

Cork is a natural product that comes from the bark of the Cork Oak tree most commonly found in Portugal and Spain.  Once the trees are about 25 years old, only then can the bark be harvested.   The trees can live between 150-200 years and the bark can only be harvested every 9-12 years.

The classic cork has long been seen as a problem for wineries.  There is a chemical compound within cork by the name of trichloroanisole (called TCA by those in the know) that can cause spoilage in wine.  If your wine smells musty or moldy then your wine is probably “corked”.  If you are in a restaurant, then send it back.  If you bought it from a store then you can take it back to get a replacement bottle.  It’s best to have your receipt though.  Oxidization is another common problem.  Basically, too much air has gotten into the bottle due to a faulty cork.  This leads to a discoloration in the wine and a vinegar-like aroma.  Unless you’ve bought a bottle of sherry, this is a major problem.

With the screw cap, these problems are not a worry.  I’m not saying that all screw cap wines are perfect, but it’s a good bet that the wine inside that bottle will get to you as the winemaker intended it to.  The cork has always been the seal of choice for wines that require aging.  However, most of the wine produced in the world today is not meant to be aged for long and therefore might as well be sealed with a screw.

So let’s leave the corkscrew in the drawer this time, as all of the following wines have a screw cap on top.

New Zealand is the industry leader in screw cap wines with an estimated 90% of all wines produced being sealed with a twist.  Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region is the perfect wine for a screw cap seal.  I did a Sauvignon Blanc tasting last week and one of the hits was Babich Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 ($18.99  #560144).  With very strong aromas that jump right out of the glass.  Passionfruit, gooseberry, and vibrant tropical notes coupled with a grassy herbaceuosness.  The mouth was filled with concentrated fruit flavours and vibrant acidity.  The Babich is a real crowd pleaser.  New Zealand is also famous for its Pinot Noir and we see a bunch of great ones.  Try Stoneleigh Pinot Noir, 2007 ($22.99  #610857) with a fragrant bouquet of  black cherry, raspberry and red plums overlaid with a savoury toasty spice.  The palate is ripe and rich with dark, red berry fruit flavours.  A soft and supple wine with fine, well integrated tannins.

If New Zealand is leading the charge then Australia comes in second in the screw cap wine race.  Peter Lehmann Barossa Valley Semillon, 2006 ($15.99  #572412) has vibrant lemon and grapefruit notes with a youthful zestiness.  Bright and crisp citrus flavours with enough mouth-watering acidity to balance it all out.  The Margaret River in Western Australia has a cooler climate and produces wines that have a distinct elegance.  Evans and Tate Margaret River Shiraz, 2004 ($19.99  #587469) has big, ripe cherry and blackcurrant aromas with subtle smoke and cigar box smells from its fermentation in oak barrels.  The palate exudes black cherry and mulberry fruit flavours with hints of spice, fine, soft tannins and a silky lingering finish.

The BC wine industry is coming around when it comes to screw caps.  Thankfully we are seeing a lot of wineries changing their ways.  Check out the aromatic white blend Blasted Church “Hatfield’s Fuse”, 2007 ($16.99 #734475).  The nose has a fragrance of ginger, orange, pear, citrus and honey.  The palate shows more of the same as well as a bit of melon and tropical flavours.  Light and refreshing with a slightly spicy finish make it great for summer patio sipping.  Quail’s Gate Chardonnay, 2006 ($18.99  #377770) has aromas of rich tropical fruits, biscuit and creamy butter.  The palate is rich, complex and silky smooth and the oak just adds to the wine without overpowering the fruit flavours.  Tinhorn Creek Winery has gone 100% screw cap.  Check out their website for more info regarding screw cap vs. Cork.  Tinhorn Creek Merlot, 2006 ($18.99  #530725) has aromas red fruit, cocoa, spice and bit of wood. The palate is packed with plum and black cherry leading into a long, smooth and smoky finish.

Despite being around for a long time, the idea of putting a screw cap on “fine” or even “quality” wines is relatively new.  The fact that it is being embraced by young, progressive wine regions is no coincidence.  Some wine regions in Europe are coming around, but very slowly.  Youthful German Rieslings are a perfect candidate for the screw job and there are some great examples sold here in Canada.  Dr. Loosen “Dr. L” Riesling QBA, 2008 ($18.99  #599274) displays  the elegant yet racy style that Germany is famous for.  Fruity and crisp with flavours of peach, grapefruit and minerality with bright, refreshing acidity and a long subtle finish.  Also try Balthasar Ress Riesling QBA, 2007 ($15.99  #250506) for a wine with similar crispness and minerality.  Crisp citrus flavours coupled with lots of acid and a long, flavourful finish makes this wine very refreshing and will leave you wanting more.

Every so often I like a splash of Rye.  Wiser’s Deluxe was my favourite for the longest time, but now that my tastes are more refined I prefer a good sipping Rye.  Wiser’s Small Batch Canadian Whisky ($29.95  #337451) has a deep amber colour and a nose of bold oak with touches of caramel and honey.  Round, full and warming flavours with hints of spice and a sweet smooth finish.  I’ll take two fingers of Small Batch with a couple of ice cubes.

As I mentioned before, we had a great Sauvignon Blanc tasting last week.  The next one will be sometime in July and our subject will be Rosés.  We’ll look at various examples of pink wine from around the globe.  July looks to be a busy month and I’ve yet to choose the date but I will let you know when I do.

Cheers,

Josh

http://www.babichwines.co.nz

http://www.stoneleigh.co.nz

http://www.peterlehmannwines.com.au

http://www.evansandtate.com.au

http://www.quailsgate.com

http://www.blastedchurch.com

http://www.tinhorn.com

http://www.drloosen.com

http://www.balthasar-ress.de/en

http://www.wisers.ca

I hope you enjoyed last issue’s wines.  Here is the second half that I promised you. Since there are a bunch of them, let’s jump right into it.

Not every wine that comes from France has to be expensive.  In the south of France, for instance, they produce a whole lot of high quality wines that don’t break the bank.  I especially enjoy some of the whites from the south.  Last week my lady and I shared a bottle of Lurton “Les Fumees Blanches” Sauvignon Blanc ($11.99  #472555).  Crisp and clean with lemon, minerality and a bit of grassiness.  A slight smokiness on the palate rounds out this crisp dry wine.  For something a little bit richer, try Gerard Bertrand Viognier ($10.49  #13357).  Great floral aromas as well as orange and peach.  A rich and flavourful palate with flavours of tropical fruits, nuts and a bit of honey lead into the soft and smooth finish. JeanJean Syrah Rose ($11.99  #355347) is a great little pink wine in a funky bottle. Cranberry, cherry and strawberry flavours with hints of herbs and spice.  Light bodied, crisp and dry with a refreshingly clean finish.

Italy is my one of my favourite countries for its high priced and collectable wines, but there are plenty of budget wines made for mid-week pasta night.  Melini Orvieto Classico ($11.49  #24844) is crisp, dry and refreshingly acidic with citrus and floral flavours and a slight nuttiness.  A refreshing and cleansing finish that screams to be drunk outside in the sunshine.  For an interesting red, try Mezzo Mondo Negroamaro ($8.99  #135178) from Salento in Puglia. This is the heel of the boot of Italy and Negroamaro is a red grape native to that area.  Rich dark fruit with flavours of tar, tobacco and a bit of earthiness.  A smooth and easy drinking red for an outstanding price.

Whenever Portuguese white wine comes up in conversation, it’s always about Vinho Verde. From the Minho region in the northwest of the country, Vinho Verde literally means “green wine”, in reference to its youthfulness.  These wines have a crisp, bracing acidity and can have a slight effervescence to them.  Crisp and tart flavours prevail here with lemon, lime and grapefruit leading the way.  The finish will be dry and refreshing leaving you wanting another glass.  Vinho Verde is meant to be drunk within a year of bottling and generally has a lower percentage of alcohol – somewhere around 9% to 11%.  Check out these three:  Avelada Casal Garcia Vinho Verde ($11.49  #400531), Gatao Vinho Verde ($10.99  #796201) and Gazela Vinho Verde ($9.99  141432).

There is a pretty good producer in Hungary by the name of Dunavar.   Oh yeah, I said Hungary.  Dunavar Pinot Gris ($9.99  #438119) has aromas of peach, apricot and melon.  Crisp acidity, peach and melon again with a hint of spice and honey with a well balanced finished.  Dunavar Merlot ($9.99  #321224) is a lighter style of merlot.  Soft plum and cherry flavours  with a bit of smokiness and soft smooth tannins.  Not a “power” wine, but good for those that enjoy the softer side.  Great value, no matter how you look at it.

My favourite country for budget red wines has to be Spain.  Castillo de Monseran Garnacha ($10.99  #197806) is regular on my wine rack.  Rich ripe black fruit lead the aromas accented by a little sweet tobacco and spice.  A rich and full mouthfeel with plenty of berry flavours and ripe tannins.  This makes an awesome BBQ wine.  Bodegas Castano Monastrell ($11.99  #731620) has an intense black cherry, plum and currant flavours with rich earthiness and smooth tannins.  Monastrell is the same grape as the French Mouvedre and what the Aussies call Mataro.  Usually used for blending, the Spanish make excellent single varietal Monastrell.  A new one to me, Pedro Pergolas Crianza Old Vine Tempranillo ($10.99  #616011) is definitely impressive. Clean rich berry and black fruit flavours with a bit of smoky earthiness. Medium bodied with smooth tannins and a rich finish. This wine is superb value.

Granville Island Brewing has added a new beer to their line-up. Granville Island Brockton IPA ($11.50 6pack #818203 bottles #817437 cans) is what they are calling their West Coast India Pale Ale. Granville Island nicknames all of their beers after geographical places in Vancouver. Brocton Point is the location of the lighthouse in Stanley Park and is also now the namesake of their newest beer. I usually stay clear of IPA’s because I’m not so big on overly hoppy beers, but I like this one because it’s not too strong. The typical IPA flavours are there, but they don’t overpower the other components of the beer.

Unfortunately the Cowichan wine tour that I wrote about last issue isn’t going to happen.  Sorry to get your hopes up folks, but feel free to do your own tour of the island wineries.  You never know, I may even tag along.

Thursday, June 18th is the date of our next wine tasting with Sauvignon Blanc being the theme grape.  The numbers have shot up for this one and we’re pretty full.  Let me know if you have any interest in attending and I’ll see what I can do.

Enjoy those budget wines and I’ll be back in 2 weeks.

Cheers,

Josh

http://www.francoislurton.com

http://www.gerard-bertrand.com

http://www.gruppoitalianovini.com/melini

http://www.jeanjean.ca

http://www.mondodelvino.com

http://www.vinhoverde.pt/en

http://www.dunavar.com

http://www.bodegascastano.com

http://www.gib.ca

Did somebody say recession? Not me that’s for sure. I seem to be spending more money on wine these days. If you’re shopping smart you can find some great deals on wine these days. This issue I thought that I’d have a bit of fun and recommend a few wines that won’t break the bank. Hell, they won’t even break a twenty. All of the wines this week can be purchased for $12.00 or less. Now I’ll be the first one to tell you that these won’t be the best wines that you’ve ever tasted but what they will do is fill up those empty holes in your wine rack with everyday wines that you’ll enjoy. Here’s a bunch of recommendations from the Southern Hemisphere and next issue I’ll be back with more picks from the Northern Hemisphere. One thing to note though is that I haven’t included the vintages on these wines. These are wines that are made to fairly consistent standards and show little variation from year to year.

Australia is a great source of inexpensive wines that deliver at their price point. Banrock Station Un-Wooded Chardonnay ($11.99 #455022) shows fresh and clean aromas of tropical and citrus fruits. Soft acid on the palate, with lemon, peach and pineapple flavours. If you like your Chardonnay to have a little oak to it then try Lindemans “Bin 65″ Chardonnay ($11.99 #142117). The best selling Chardonnay in Canada has a bright nose of peach, melon and tropical fruits. The palate is full bodied and bright with a touch of oak and hints of spice. For reds you can try De Bortoli Petite Sirah ($11.99 #336750). (Petite Sirah is different than the grape Syrah, also known as Shiraz. Petite Sirah is actually a lesser known French grape by the name of Durif. Widely planted in California there are a few decent examples showing up in Australia.) This wine shows aromas of ripe plum, blueberry and hints of dark chocolate. The taste is rich and fruity with subtle flavours of mocha and oak. Back to Banrock again, I have always been a fan of the Banrock Station Shiraz/Mataro ($10.99 #555771). Ripe berries, hints of anise and spice highlight the nose while red currants, raspberries and spiced black cherries show on the palate. Medium bodied with supple tannins and balanced acidity lead into a smooth lingering finish.

Argentina is a great source of quality inexpensive wines. Family Zuccardi “Santa Julia” Viognier ($10.99 #612317) has an abundance of peach and tropical fruit aromas with hints of roses, apples and banana. A rich and medium bodied white with a fruit salad of citrus, tropical and stone fruit flavours and a smooth finish of medium length. Bodega Del Fin Del Mundo Southernmost White ($11.99 #477075) is a crisp and light white blend perfect for patio sipping. Soft tropical fruit flavours and vibrant citrus notes. Bracing acidity make this a great seafood wine. Of course, Malbec is the grape that Argentina is best known for and there are a few beauties that fall under our twelve dollar limit. Check out great examples like Finca Flichman Malbec ($10.99 #612176), Finca Los Primos Malbec ($10.99 #632919) or Trapiche Malbec ($11.99 #338343). Look for bold aromas of ripe berry, plums and violet. Fruit forward palates echoing those same flavours with smooth, easy tannins and hints of oak, smoke and spice. Malbec from Argentina is very popular for its fruit forward style without overpowering oak or tannins. Try all three and decide which one is right for you. (FYI, finca means farm or estate in Spanish.)

Chile is right next door and is another country that gives us some great value wines. I wrote about Cono Sur in the very first issue so I won’t bore you by writing about them again. Have a peek at Issue Number One for Cono Sur Viognier and Cono Sur Gewürztraminer. Sauvignon Blanc is another grape that does well in Chile. Santa Rita Sauvignon Blanc ($11.99 #275586) is crisp and refreshing with aromas of grapefruit, lemon and lime. Dry with vibrant acidity showing bright tropical flavours and light herbal notes. The finish is clean, crisp and well rounded. As Malbec has done in Argentina, Carmenère is doing in Chile. Carmenère has French origins as well and until recently was mistaken for Merlot in Chile. Once vineyard operators knew exactly what they were dealing they embraced the Carmenère grape as their own. A fruit forward, medium bodied red wine, Carmenère makes a delicious wine to be enjoyed in its youth. Try Estación Carmenère ($11.99 #302927) with fresh red fruit, dark chocolate and herb aromas. Tasting of red and black cherry this wine has a rich, elegant flavours, and soft tannins. Carmenère is also used for blending and goes well with Cabernet Sauvignon. (I think that may be one of the reasons it was thought to be Merlot for so long.) Baron Philippe de Rothschild “Mapu” Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenère ($10.95 #756981) is made in Chile by the famous estate of Bordeaux, France. Flavours of black Cherry and blackberry, pepper spice with a bit of earthiness. Medium bodied with plenty of acidity and easy tannins. This wine has fast become an everyday favourite at my place. (Ok, every second day.)

There is a big bug problem in BC. Mountain pine beetles are ripping through our forests destroying one of our most important natural resources. Our “not wine” this issue poses the question: what if you could drink cheap beer for a good cause? Pacific Western Brewery has a new beer on the market called Caribou Genuine Draft ($7.54 6pack #63149) and for every case sold they will plant a new tree. Drink beer, plant a tree…Makes sense to me. There are a lot of people in BC that rely on the forest industry so I urge you to put down that can of crap-weiser and drink a beer that will make a difference.

Sauvignon Blanc is the grape chosen for our next wine tasting. Thursday June 18th, 7:00pm at the Canadian Pacific Lawn Bowling Club. We’ll be tasting a minimum of 6 wines from all over the globe. Twenty bucks gets you a night of education and fun. Let me know if you’d like to attend. josh@modernpalate.ca

There is a great fundraisier coming up in June. The Intrepid Theatre Company, which operates the Victoria Fringe Festival among others, is operating a wine tour in the Cowichan Valley and they’ve asked yours truly to ride along and provide a little bit of insight. This is a great way to learn more about the wineries on the island and support your local theatre.

Tour De Cork

A day-long coach tour of four wineries/cideries in the Cowichan Valley, with proceeds to benefit Intrepid Theatre

Tickets: $125 (includes tax receipt, lunch + winery discounts)

Intrepid Theatre invites you on a private daytime coach tour of four Cobble Hill/Cowichan Valley wineries. You’ll enjoy lunch at Merridale Estate Cidery, tastings, talks and tours. Sommelier Josh Clark of Modern Palate will be riding along to answer your questions and share his wine knowledge.

Advance booking required as seating is limited.

Board the Tour de Cork Coach at Intrepid Theatre offices #2-1609 Blanshard Street,

Sunday, June 14, 9:30 am returning late afternoon

This special limited seating tour is open to all supporters of freaky, fringey theatre or anyone game for a full day vino adventure!

Cheers and thanks for reading,

Josh

www.banrockstation.com

www.lindemans.com

www.debortoli.com.au

www.familiazuccardi.com

www.bodegadelfindelmundo.com

www.valentinbianchi.com

www.flichman.com.ar

www.trapiche.com.ar

www.santarita.com

www.estacionwines.com

www.bpdr.com

www.intrepidtheatre.com/events09.php

Ok, I thought that it may be time to get specific. Every once in a while I will focus on a particular wine region or grape variety. This gives you the opportunity to learn about where your wines come from and why they taste the way they do. All wine is different and It’s my intent to give a little insight into the personality that is coming from inside the bottle.

On the map of France, Alsace is located in the upper right hand corner. Alsace borders Germany on the Rhine River, and if you know your history, you’ll know that the Alsace-Lorraine region has bounced back and forth between French and German control. This actually had a large influence in how the wine from Alsace is packaged. Alsace is the only classic French wine region to have their wines labelled by grape variety. This means that the grape named on the front label is what makes up the wine inside. Other regions such as Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne are labelled by place name so it’s up to you to figure out what grapes are making the wine inside. (Don’t you worry though; I can help you with that as well.)

The region of Alsace has a cooler grape growing climate than most of the world’s major wine regions. This is a region of elegant white wines and very little red. In fact, the only red grape that the French wine laws allow is Pinot Noir and it is grown in very small quantities. In fact, we don’t even see Alsatian red wine in BC. We do see a bit of Rosé but usually in the form of sparkling wine. The white grapes that we’re talking about here are Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Muscat and Sylvaner.

Lucien Albrecht Crémant d’Alsace Blanc de Blanc, NV ($27.99 #657742) is a sparkling wine made from the Pinot Blanc grape. A Great value when you compare it to Champagne this wine is light and delicate with a refreshing, bubbly mouthfeel and crisp citrus fruit flavours. If you like your sparkling to have a little colour, then try Pierre Sparr Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rose, NV ($28.99 #171983). A true pink colour with flavours of raspberries, strawberries and ripe cranberries. A nice body with delicate bubbles, lively acidity and a clean, dry finish. The word “Crémant” refers to sparkling wine made in France but outside of Champagne. There are seven specific regions where the Crémant name can be used. (There is one exception that falls outside of France. Crémant de Luxembourg.)

There is a blend that some winemakers in Alsace called “Edelzwicker” which translates into “noble wine”. This can be a blend of any of the Alsatian white grape varieties. Hugel “Gentil”, 2007 ($20.99 #367284) is one such example and is a blend of Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat and Sylvaner. Quite floral with notes of honeysuckle, orange, lemon and lime. On the palate the floral notes are punctuated by apricot, nectarine and apple flavours. Crisp and dry with lilting acidity this wine is great with spicy foods like Thai or Indian.

Top quality Alsatian wines are something special. We did a Pinot Gris tasting last month and one of the wines opened was Pfaffenheim Tokay Pinot Gris Steinart Grand Cru, 2004 ($33.95 #147280). A deep golden colour the nose was alive with flavours of pear, apricot and tropical fruits. The palate is fat and rich with those same flavours as well as a little honey and gingerbread. Just enough acidity and a long finish round out this dynamite wine.

This is just an introduction so now it’s your job to go forth and sample the wines of Alsace, France. Please drop me a line and let me know what you’ve discovered.

Local spirits are featured in out “Not Wine” section this issue. Island Spirits Distillery is situated on Hornby Island and is producing top quality Vodka and Gin. Quite new and fairly unknown, they are actually selling more in the Edmonton and Calgary areas but consumers closer to home are beginning to take notice. Phrog Vodka ($50.00 #586537) and Phrog Gin ($50.00 #30171) are both made with one goal in mind, purity. In fact, their claim is that their spirits do not cause hangovers or trigger allergies. (I’ll have to do the research and get back to you at a later date.) I especially enjoyed the Gin, with a special blend of 14 botanicals. I liked the prominent anise flavour that this Gin has. It definitely makes a unique and delicious martini.

We’re doing a Syrah/Shiraz tasting tomorrow. If you are in Victoria and would like to join the fun then just drop me a line.

Cheers,

Josh

www.lucien-albrecht.com

www.vins-sparr.com

www.hugel.com

www.pfaffenheim.com

www.islandspirits.ca

Every so often I find myself at someone’s house and they drag me to have me look at their wine collection.  So many times I just have to shake my head in disbelief.  They seem so proud that they’ve held on to some “blah” wine for “X” number of years.  Ok, let me explain myself a little.  99% of wine made in the world today is meant to drunk within 3 years of bottling.  Without getting to technical, most wines lack the structure and components for proper aging.  This does not mean that what you’re drinking isn’t quality; it’s just that the wine has been made for early consumption.  Ok, I know you’ve all heard that wine gets better with age, but that only really applies to a small number of wines.  As a rough rule, if you’re spending less than $25-$30 dollars, then there is no need to leave that wine on your rack to long.  Of course this is only a rough guideline and there are always exceptions to the rule…in this case there are a whole lot of them.  If you trust the staff at the store then you can ask them about ageability otherwise you can check online.  Head to the winery’s website or just put the name of the wine into a search engine and have a peek at what others are saying about it.

Just what will happen when that wine gets to old?  The biggest thing is that the fruit will fall away leaving the wine seem flat and lifeless while the acidity will seem to dominate the wine.  This is what we would call “dead” wine.  It can also take on a vinegar-like taste which comes from too much air getting into the wine.  It could be an old or even faulty cork that can cause this to happen and when it does it spells disaster for the wine.

There is a white grape that comes from the Rhone Valley in France by the name of Marsanne.  It produces wines that are deeply coloured, with flavours of spice, nuts and pear.  They can also take on an oily, honeyed characteristic.  Traditionally used for blending, Marsanne can be a very interesting wine on its own. Leave it to those in the new world to let the grape fly on its own. Tahbilk Marsanne, 2007 ($17.99 #559716) from Victoria, Australia is a favourite of those in the know.  Honeysuckle and apple on the nose with hints of apricot and white peach.  The palate is rich and generous with a great length.  A bit of honey, citrus, and pistachio with rich acidity.  I’ve always liked pairing this one with roast chicken or pasta with cream sauce.

We had a Pinot Gris tasting a couple of weeks ago and tasted some fantastic wines but there was one bottle that seemed to impress the crowd. Kettle Valley Pinot Gris, 2008 ($22.00 Private liquor stores only) from the Naramata Bench region of BC has a couple of distinct characteristics that make it stand out in a crowd of bottles made from the same grape.  The first thing that you’ll notice about this wine is the colour.  The Pinot Gris grape can have a lighter purple colour to it, halfway between a white grape and a black grape…Gris in French means grey.  So, what Kettle Valley does after crushing is leave the juice in contact with skins for a short time.  The result is a beautiful light salmon colour in the wine.  Secondly, during the wine making process, this wine undergoes partial malolactic fermentation.  (See the Q&A in Issue Number Four.)  The result is a lusher, creamier style of Pinot Gris.  This wine also sees some aging in oak barrels which further add to the complexity.  The nose is very aromatic with aromas of peach, apricot, and papaya.  The palate is rich and generous with those peach flavours again as well as ripe grapefruit, fresh acidity and a long mouth-coating finish.

Masi is a big producer in Italy, making wines all over the Northeast as well as in Tuscany.  A few years ago they took their show on the road and began making wines in Argentina.  Masi Tupungato Passo Doble, 2007 ($16.99 #225813) is a wine that shows what Argentina is famous for with a winemaking technique that has its roots in Valpolicella, Italy where Masi became famous.  The makeup is 70% Malbec and 30% semi-dried Corvina.  Corvina one of the 3 grapes used for making Valpolicella wines.  Semi-dried grapes are quite the norm in that region as well.  By semi- drying the grapes, some liquid is lost but the result is concentration of sugar, favour and intensity.  The Malbec is fermented once on its own and then again with the semi-dried Corvina.  Double fermentation is a process that has become a Masi specialty.  I hope that you’re all still with me because we’re just getting to important part, what the hell does it taste like.  The nose is intense with big blackberry and jammy black cherry.  There is a lot going on so make sure that you get your nose right in the glass and take it all in.  The mouth flavours are big, rich and fruit forward.  Lots of ripe blackberry, cherry and spice flavours with soft tannins a long full finish.  This wine will be better with food, particularly red meat and strong cheeses.

Every once in a while you taste something that evokes memories of days gone by.  Mom’s spaghetti sauce, a corndog at the fair…whatever.  Recently, I had one of those experiences.  Of course, for me it has to be booze of some sort and it just so happens that it made the newsletter as our “Not Wine” this issue.  My beers tastes have changed a lot over the years and I regularly drink a variety of different beers.  (Sometimes in one sitting.)  When I was a lad there was only one beer for me and that was Molson Dry ($25.95 15 can pack#929653).  Crisp and clean with a lighter body and lighter flavour profile.  A clean drinking beer with very little aftertaste and none of that bitterness.  My ideal pairing would be a hot summer day with your fishing rod in the water not caring if you catch anything.  I won’t let this beer slip my mind ever again.

I still haven’t set a date for the next wine tasting.  It all depends on my work schedule.  I can tell you that it will be the second week of May at the Canadian Pacific Lawn Bowling Club and the theme will be Syrah/Shiraz.

I’m sending this out a little early this week. I’m heading to Vegas for a week and there is no way that I would bring my laptop.

Cheers,

Josh

www.tahbilk.com.au

www.kettlevalleywinery.com

www.masi.it

www.molson.com

Everyone knows that the Okanagan Valley is the place to be for BC wine, but there are a couple of smaller areas that also make some pretty decent wines.  Right here on Vancouver Island there are some great producers making high quality and very interesting wines. Monday, April 13th I attended the Wine Islands tasting at the Laurel Point Inn.  Showing their wares were 20 wineries, 2 distilleries, 2 ciderworks and a meadery.  They all came together to show not only the quality but also the diversity of what Vancouver Island and surrounding Islands can produce.  The wines that I am writing about today are in limited supply and won’t be in many stores.  Some products will only be available from the winery so you can either contact the winery or myself and I can find which stores may stock these wines.

One of the first booths that I went to was Zanatta Winery and Vineyards.  They are situated in the Cowichan Valley just south of Duncan and were pouring 4 different sparkling wines.  My two favourites were the Zanatta Glenora Fantasia Brut ($27.95) and the Zanatta Allegria Brut ($28.95).  The Fantasia is made from a little known grape named Cayuga and is a crisp dry style sparkling with refreshing flavours of green apples and pears.  By the way, don’t go looking for other wines made from the Cayuga grape because you will not find any…unless you live in New York or possibly Quebec.  The Allegria Brut ($28.95) has a pinkish hue to it and is more of a fruit forward style.  Made from Pinot Noir this wine has beautiful flavours of raspberry, strawberry and blueberry.  I found this wine to be very balanced with nice backbone.  In total, Zanatta makes 5 different sparkling wines including a red version, so there should be something there to suit everybodies taste.

The Comox Valley now has its first winery. Beaufort Vineyard and Estate Winery are situated just north of Courtenay and are ready to show what they can do.  The vineyards were only planted about 2 years ago so as of yet they are too young to produce wine quality grapes.  Beaufort is making wine from grapes that they are purchasing from the Okanagan, Fraser and Cowichan valleys. They are currently making more than 10 different wines.  My favourite of the day was the Beaufort Gewürztraminer, 2008 ($17.95).  It showed a great aromatic nose with rose petal and lychee leading the charge.  The palate was fruit forward and slightly spicy with enough acidity to balance out the fruit.  My other favourite was simply named Beaufort Black, 2007 ($17.96 375ml).  Chocolate cake is calling for this dessert wine made from mostly Blackberries with some Black Currents thrown in to balance it out.  Rich and sweet berry flavours with a hint of oak.  There were many fruit wines at the tasting but this one was definitely one of the best.  I can’t wait to try the Beaufort wines when they start using some of their own grapes.

I’ve been a fan of Morning Bay Vineyard and Estate Winery for quite a while now.  Situated on Pender Island, they are growing their own grapes as well as importing grapes from top quality vineyard sites in the Okanagan.  At the tasting I really enjoyed their Morning Bay Chiaretto, 2007 ($18.90) which is a Rosé wine made from Pinot Noir and Marechal Foch.  Slightly off-dry with an abundance of strawberry and sweet raspberry flavours.  The sun has finally made an appearance and this is the perfect wine for picnic in the park.  They also showed their Morning Bay Reserve Merlot, 2005 ($43.99).  The grapes for this wine come from the Inkameep vineyard in the south Okanagan.  This wine is big and rich with flavours of plum and cassis with a little cocoa and liquorice, loads of ripe berry with big yet smooth tannins and lively acidity.  I rank this wine amongst the best red wines produced in BC.

Venturi Schulze Vineyards was there as well.  They make another great island sparkling wine, Venturi Schulze Brut Naturel, 2006 ($32.10).  It’s a deliciously dry sparkling wine made from a blend of 3 cool climate grapes with crisp citrus and green apple notes and lively, bracing acidity.  It’s also sealed with a crown cap just like last issues Prosecco. Venturi Schulze Brandenburg No. 3, 2006 ($35.60 375ml) is unlike any other that you’ll ever find as it is made in a very different way.  The Madeleine Sylvaner grapes are pressed and then the juice is gently simmered over an open fire to concentrate the sugar, acidity and flavours.  After a year of fermentation the wine is then finished in new oak barrels.  This is just a brief overview and I encourage you to check out their website for more detail on this extra special wine.  This dessert wine has unique characteristics.   Sweet and slightly smokey with a definitive caramel taste and a light flavour of coffee. Versatility is a great feature of the Brandenburg.  Crème brulée, lighter cheeses, nuts, apple pie, etc.  It’s one that you can definitely have a little fun with.  Oh yeah, the Brandenburg is quite possibly my favourite dessert wine…that I can readily afford.

Mead is great, great, great, (add a few more greats) granddaddy of all fermented beverages.   This is the oldest form of alcohol and dates back to the stone ages.  The drink of choice for our “Not Wine” of this issue is fermented honey in a bottle and is being produced here on the island. Tugwell Creek Honey Farm and Meadery produce top quality mead just outside of Victoria, in Sooke. Now, mead can come in many different styles, colours and flavours so I won’t go too in depth right now.  I like the Tugwell Creek Kickass Current Melomel, 2006 ($29.95) made with wildflower honey, black currents with a touch of oak aging.  Full bodied and robust, with vibrant cassis flavours and a rich mouth feel. Tugwell Creek Wassail Gold Sack Mead, 2006 ($26.95 375ml) is a dessert style of mead.  Extra premium honey and less water with fermentation in oak barrels creating a richer and thicker style of mead with a sweet and complex palate.  Pair it with your dessert or drink it as dessert.  This is a cool one to bring to a dinner party as it really sparks conversation.

Last week’s Pinot Gris/Grigio wine tasting went well.  We’ll do the next one in early May with the theme grape being Syrah/Shiraz.  It’s another one of those grapes that has obtained two names.  I’ll let you know the exact date very soon.

Cheers until next time,

Josh

www.zanatta.ca

www.beaufortwines.ca

www.morningbay.ca

www.venturischulze.com

www.tugwellcreekfarm.com

Sorry that this newsletter is a couple of days late, but I have been busy.  Last week was the annual Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival and it was a huge success.  A good time was had by all.  In total for the week there were over 25,000 festival goers and more than 30,000 bottles of wine.  My team took care of all the wine for the seminars, dinners, wine parties and any other event that that happened.  We were the sommeliers, the cellar masters, the delivery and pickup crew and the comic relief.  I hope that many of you had the chance to attend.  It’s an experience not to be missed.  This issue I’ll touch on a few wines that I had the pleasure of tasting last week.

What about some sparkling wine to start off with?  Mionetto is a winery that specializes in sparkling wines from the Valdobbiadene region in the North East of Italy.  I love their Il Prosecco (#378638  $18.99) and Il Moscato (#73932  $18.99).  The Il Prosecco overflows with aromas of apples, pears and citrus the palate echoes the same fruit flavours with delicate bubbles and a hint of honey.  The Il Moscato is for those that like their bubble to be a little bit sweeter and a bit softer.  This wine has a definite sweet green grape flavour with honey notes a soft gentle bubble and a light, 7% alcohol. A breakfast wine if there ever was one.  The coolest thing about these sparkling wines is that they are sealed with a crown seal…That’s a beer cap to you and me.

I really enjoy a good Marlborough, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.  Especially the ones that I don’t have to shell out to much money for.  Two that stood out last week were Babich, 2008 (#560144  $18.99) and Villa Maria, 2008 (#342360  $18.99).  The Babich shows some nice grassy flavours with passionfruit and gooseberry flavours dominating the palate.  Crisp, refreshing and fruity like any good Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc should be.  The Villa Maria shows similar grassy and gooseberry notes as well accompanied by crisp citrus notes and vibrant acidity.

The theme of the festival this year was Pinot(s) and I had the chance to try some great Pinot Noirs.  Santa Rita Reserva Pinot Noir, 2006 (#539601  $14.99) is a real steal of a wine.  It’s a rich ruby colour and has ripe red fruit flavours on smell and taste combined with firm yet easy tannins and a sweet fruit finish.  This is a wine with dynamite value.  Another great pinot that I was introduced to this week was and Oregon Pinot simply named Wine by Joe “Really Good” Pinot Noir, 2007 (#656231  $29.99).  Joe Dobbes is the Joe in question, a superstar winemaker that also makes wine under the Dobbes Family Estate label.  Oregon is one of the premier places in the world to grow Pinot Noir.  That, coupled with the fact that week pay way too much in taxes for American wines means that we have to pay a little extra to get the good stuff.  Don’t worry though, the good stuff is worth it.  Rich blackberry and soft leather aromas, with brighter red fruits and soft luscious tannins on the palate.  A great example of what Oregon can do with the Pinot Noir grape.

Ok, one more fun wine to go.  Another Oregon producer, Sokol Blosser,  has been making great Pinot noirs for a while now but they are also known for their wacky blended wines.  I’m sure I’ll get to the white in a future issue but for now I want to tell you about Meditrina (5) (#185744  $23.99).  The number five refers to the fifth edition of this wine.  They label by edition rather than vintage so that they may blend wine from different vintages.  The blend is an unconventional one of Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Syrah.  The result is a light, fruity and fun bottle of wine that is both vibrant and soft.  Rich juicy berry fruits with delicate grape tannins make this an easy drinker that pairs best with feet on the coffee table and a flat screen TV.

Q:  Hey Josh, why did you move from Vancouver to Victoria?  A:  Because I couldn’t get Herman’s on tap anywhere in Vancouver.  Ok, so maybe that’s not the main reason but I always claim that it is.  For those of you that don’t have a clue of what I’m talking about, let me introduce you to our “Not Wine” this issue, Herman’s Dark Lager (#902320  $11.65 for a six pack).  Black in colour like a stout but refreshing and crisp like a lager it’s full flavoured without being full bodied.  This balance is what makes it this writer’s favourite beer of all time.  Although, that’s just my opinion, you’ll need to try it for yourself.  If you don’t enjoy the first one, save the other five for me.

Hey, what’s the deal with the Q&A section.  I had a great question last week but was shutout this week.  This is something that I’ll need your help with if I have any hope of continuing on with the Q&A Don’t disappoint me.

There is a wine tasting in Victoria on April the 13th that should be a bit of fun.  It’s put on by the Wine Island Vintners Association from 4pm to 7pm at the Inn at Laurel Point.  This is the spring showcase for island wines, cider, mead and spirits.  Tickets are only 20 bucks and the proceeds go to the Canadian Cancer Society.  Come out to support a good cause and sample the best in local booze.    http://wineislands.ca/pages/news/index.php?article=11

There are still a couple of spots left for my Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio tasting next Thursday April, 9th.  It’s a fun, casual tasting where we open 6-8 bottles and talk through them.  Follow the Facebook link at the bottom of the page or just drop me an e-mail for more info.  josh@modernpalate.ca

That’s it for now.  Next issue I’ll let you know about some of the wines from the Island Wines tasting.

Cheers,

Josh

www.facebook.com/home.php#/event.php?eid=68709225465

www.mionetto.com

www.babichwines.co.nz

www.villamaria.co.nz

www.santarita.com

www.winebyjoe.com

www.meditrinawine.com

www.vanislandbrewery.com

Well we are less than a week away from the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival.  On Monday we get rolling on one of the largest and oldest celebrations of wine in the world.  The seven day event showcases wines from 183 wineries and 15 countries.  At the main International Festival Tasting there are over 700 wines to sample…..Don’t try to get though all of them.  It just leads to a whopper of a headache the next morning.  The Saturday evening is sold out but there is still space on Thursday and Friday nights.  Don’t hesitate….They will sell out. There

The regional theme this year is British Columbia with 58 wineries represented.  There are many that are making their first appearances at the festival.  There are some wineries that have very limited production and don’t ever pour at this festival because of its sheer size.  This is a chance to try some wines that you can only find at restaurants, or if you are very lucky, at the winery.  Today’s issue is more about the recognition of the best of BC than the usual wine recommendations.  Many of the wines that I write about won’t be available in the government liquor stores and will be of limited availability in private stores.  (Apologies to the readers in Alberta but this issue may be a big tease for you.  It’s just more incentive to cross the border for a visit.  Don’t worry; I’ve got a hide-a-bed in my office.  There’s lots of room.

I’m not going to go into to much detail about the wines this week because I want to tell you about quite a few.  Of course, every wine that I mention is worth seeking out. I also wanted to mention that there are still tickets available for a couple of Sunday night winemakers dinners. One at Bridges and one at Wild Rice. There is no better way to end the week of wine tasting with a great meal. Check these out on the website. The tickets won’t last long.

The big hitters of BC are making a presence.  There are some very limited and sought after wines rearing their heads. Black Hills will be pouring their Note Bene, 2006 ($42.90) which is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. This wine is always in high demand and I have a feeling that it may not last all weekend. They have also produced Canada’s first Carmenère, a red wine grape made popular in Chile.  I’m looking forward to trying that one.

Mission Hill Oculus, 2005 ($70.00) is another BC icon being poured.  The blend is Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.  You have to also check out Mission Hill’s 2 newest members of their Legacy Series.  The Perpetua, 2006 ($34.99) is a dynamite Chardonnay and Quatrain, 2005 ($50.00) is a blend of Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.  The richness of the syrah really shines through in this wine. Thumbs up.

Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 2004 and 2006 ($45.00) is a joint venture of Vincor Canada and Groupe Taillan of Bordeaux, France.  It’s a BC Bordeaux if there ever was one and it will be cool to taste 2 vintages side by side.  They will also be pouring their baby brother wine Pétales d’Osoyoos, 2005 ($25.00). There are still tickets available for a seminar on Thursday afternoon in which you can taste a vertical of Le Grand Vin from 2001 through 2007. This will be an extraordinary tasting and a rare opportunity to compare 7 different vintages side by side.

I’m a big fan of Cabernet Franc as a wine on its own and think that it’s a grape that should be embraced in BC.  It ripens earlier than some other red grapes so it is perfectly suited to be grown in BC.   Aromas of raspberry and violets offset and pleasant vegetal character.  Some of BC’s best examples will be on display at the festival. Poplar Grove, 2005 ($40.00) and Hillside Estate, 2006 ($22.99) show off a couple of beauties from the Naramata Bench area. Fairview Cellars, 2007 ($27.90), Peller Estates Private Reserve, 2006 ($19.99) and Sandhill, 2006 ($2006) are a few great examples of Cab Franc from farther south around Oliver and Osoyoos.

Of course it’s not all about red wine.  In fact it’s almost 50-50 when it comes to red and white wine production in BC.  JoieFarm will be pouring 3 whites and a rosé.  Un-oaked Chardonnay, 2008 ($20.90) along with their Riesling, 2008 ($20.90) and A Noble Blend, 2008 ($21.90).  The 2008 Noble Blend is a beautifully aromatic blend of Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Kerner, Pinot Gris and Ehrenfelser.  Also try out the Rosé, 2008 ($19.40) which is a slightly off-dry style and a blend of pinot noir, gamay noir, pinot meunier and pinot gris.

Tantalus Vineyards around Kelowna is the new king of riesling in the Okanagan.  In fact three of the four wines they will be pouring are rieslings.  Tantalus Riesling, 2007 ($23.00) the Old Vines Riesling, 2006 ($25.00) and their Riesling Icewine, 2007 ($70.00). It’s really neat to see one wineries produce the same grape 3 different ways.

Ok……While BC is the focus, please remember the other 125 wineries and 500 wines from 15 other countries.  Wines that range from the “everyday drinker” to the “buy now enjoy in 5-10 years” are all there for the tasting.  Compare a $15 Australian Shiraz to a $80 version.  Ever had a $170 French Pinot Noir?  How much better is it than that $25 BC version that you tried a half hour ago?  Go forth and create your own comparison tastings. Just back away from the “Tig”…..that’s all mine.

Technically classified as wine, but produced more like a beer, sake (Japanese rice wine) always makes its presence felt at the wine festival.  As the focus is British Columbia, there is one special sake maker showing off their wares.  Granville Island is home to Canada’s first fresh premium sake winery, Artisan Sake Maker.  Masa Shiroki will be pouring five different sakes at the festival this year and for the full explanations on all of them you will need to go to see him directly.  As their production is very limited I have only had the opportunity to taste a couple of Masa’s products.  What I will tell you is that this is high quality goods.  Sake that you would want to pair with food as you would a wine.  It’s nothing like that warm swill that the sushi restaurant on the corner serves with your California roll and yam tempura.  Pay close attention to the Sparkling Sake, 2009 ($23.90) as this should prove to be a special treat.

The Q&A section has finally arrived.  Although it’s only one question, I hope that this gets the ball rolling.

Q: I know I’ve had a white wine that left a “buttery, creamy” taste on my tongue…
it was a South Australia Riesling, but can’t remember what it was called nor can I find anything like it. So basically can you think of anything that tastes like that? mmmmm butter…..

Stephanie – Vancouver

A:  That buttery flavour was likely a result of a winemaking process called Malolactic Fermentation.  Without getting to technical, this is a conversion of the tart tasting malic acid into the softer, creamier lactic acid.  Malic acid is found in fruits and vegetables and lactic acid is, of course, found in dairy products.  Think of the difference between biting into a green apple and drinking a glass of milk and it’s a complete contrast in the way they make you mouth feel.  Malolactic Fermentation is seen in most red wines and some white wines…..Especially those that have seen some time in oak barrels.  The most obvious examples are those big buttery chardonnays that we see from California and other Chard’s that follow that style.  Riesling is a grape that doesn’t generally receive this treatment; in fact I’ve never had one that did.  I do know that Stephanie has spent some time in Australia and may have stumbled upon a wine from an experimental and/or rebellious winemaker at some point in her travels.  Hope this answers your question.

I mentioned in the last issue that I do a monthly wine tasting in Victoria.  We set the date for Thursday April 9th and we’re going to taste Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio.  Seating is limited as we like to keep it quite intimate.  Reply on Facebook by clicking the link below or just send me an e-mail.

josh@modernpalate.ca

I’ve got a busy couple of weeks ahead of me but I’ll be back after the festival.  I apologize if the next issue is a day or two late.  I doubt that I’ll be doing much writing while the festival is on.

Take care,

Josh

www.artisansakemaker.com