Modern Palate Wine Advice

It breaks my heart to say this but there are only five more wines to go.

On their own, Riesling and Gewürztraminer make some of the world’s greatest white wines.  Put them together and you get some really cool and interesting flavours.  Every wine maker that plays with this kind of blend has their own interpretation and style.  For this reason I love to taste every example I can.  Fun, unpretentious and easy drinking… hmmm, sounds like patio wine to me.

First up I want to talk about the big two on their own.  Tinhorn Gewürztraminer, 2009 ($18.99  #55913 Specialty Stores) is a dry style of Gewürztraminer with the floral characteristics that you would expect to see.  A vibrant nose with aromas of lychee, tropical fruits, rose blossom and hints of spice.  The palate is a fruit salad of tropical fruit, peach, crisp apple and honey with a crisp dry finish.  Gewürztraminer, like Riesling, is so often associated with sweeter wines and although floral, many of the wines are bone dry.  It’s a personal taste thing and my preference is for the dryer styles, but that’s just me.  You drink whatever you prefer.

The Riesling that we tasted was also from BC.  Ex Nihilo Riesling, 2007 ($25.99  #846808 Specialty Stores) has a classic Riesling aroma of fresh lemon, apple, peach and petrol.  (The petrol or diesel smell comes from aging Riesling… it’s a good thing.  Tell you more about it another time.)  The palate is vibrant and fresh with ripe fruit flavours, citrus and rose petal.  Loads of fresh acidity leads the way to the long viscous finish.  This is BC Riesling done right by an up and coming Okanagan Falls producer.

De Bortoli Traminer/Riesling, 2009  ($10.99  #952580), the lone foreigner in the group, is from the Riverina region of New South Wales, Australia.  The aroma is like a fruit salad assault on your nose.  Everything from lychee, stone, tropical and a little citrus fruit with floral hints rounding it out.  The palate is a little off-dry with more of the same fruit flavours, some nice acidity, and a long semi-sweet finish.

Rigamorole White?, 2008 ($14.99  #845552) is a blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer and other Germanic varietals (that’s what the label says) from the Okanagan Valley.  A great dry aromatic with a nose of peach, red grapefruit, orange and honeysuckle.  The palate is crisp and dry with bright fruit and fresh acidity.  The fact that it’s inexpensive and widely available really elevates this wine’s appeal.

Now there was one wine that did stand out as the “belle of the ball”. Wild Goose “Autumn Gold”, 2009 ($18.99  #414755) is a 3 grape blend from Okanagan Falls, BC. Here, Riesling and Gewürztraminer are joined by another friend, Pinot Blanc.  A lively and fruity nose with aromas of citrus, apple, apricot and honey.  The palate is soft and round with a ton of fruit, a hint of sweetness and crisp, refreshing acidity.  Cool fact about this wine; after the grapes are crushed and the juice is taken, some of that juice is saved to blend back into the wine at the end.  The wine is fermented to be dry and the juice added at the end sweetens the wine.  Originating in Germany this process is called Süssreserve.

Enjoy the patios.

Cheers,

Josh

www.tinhorn.com

www.exnihilovineyards.com

www.debortoli.com.au

www.artisanwineco.ca

www.wildgoosewinery.com

Ok, just a short one today and then I’ll be back soon with the big grand finale of the aromatic white wines.

Asking any wine expert about their favorite wines is a funny thing.  You’ll be asked back questions like “what would I be eating with it?”, “what time of the day is it?”, “where would I be drinking it?” or “what colour would my underwear be at the time?”  If it’s me and its white wine I’ve got to lean towards the Viognier grape.  Something about the stone fruit flavours, and fruity and floral aromas.  I love the richness that Viognier can have and its versatility with or without food.  My only complaint about the grape is that it can lack acidity and if poorly made can be pretty unbalanced.

From the Rapel Valley in Chile comes Anakena Single Vineyard Viognier, 2008 ($15.96  #329755).  Golden in colour the nose is intense with aromas of peach, apricot, floral and slightly spiced.  The palate is elegant with stone fruit flavours and hints of citrus.  A rich texture and a long generous finish.  Viognier is a white grape that can take some oaking and for this wine we’re talking about 25% of the finished product has seen oak fermentation and aging.

The grape Viognier comes from the Rhone Valley in France.  The 2 other most prestigious white grapes from that region are Marsanne and Roussanne.  While those 2 grapes are natural blending partners they often invite Viognier to come and play.  Twisted Tree Viognier/Roussanne, 2009 ($21.90 #743401) is a great example from Osoyoos, BC.  Bold yet elegant aromas of peach, nectarine and orange blossoms lead to the palate that echoes those flavours.  Nice weight and viscosity on the palate with a crisp, dry finish.  No oak on this baby, its 100% stainless steel.

Viognier can be a bit of a bitch and most growers and winemakers don’t want to deal with but those that put in the time can produce some very rewarding results.  Check out some examples from the Rhone Valley and the south of France for classical French Viognier.  For some big and rich styles take a look at California and Australia.  More specifically seek out some Yalumba from South Australia.  They’ve really championed the grape down there and produce a half a dozen or so different Viognier wines.  I would also recommend checking out other BC Viognier such as La Frenz and Sandhill.

One more aromatic blast to come with five more wines that pair well with chillin’ in the back yard.

Cheers,

Josh

www.anakenawines.cl

www.twistedtree.ca

Ring the bell; it’s time for round 2 of Aromatic White wine insanity.  I’ve got some off-dry wines that are a little off of the beaten track.

The first grape is Ehrenfelser (EHR-en-fehl-zuhr) which was created in 1929 by crossing the grapes Riesling and Silvaner.  The grape is of German origin and has really caught the interest of a few wineries in BC.  Hailing from Kelowna is Summerhill Ehrenfelser, 2007 ($24.99  #440016 Specialty Stores).  A real crowd pleaser, this wine has a very aromatic nose with aromas of tropical fruit and white roses.  The palate is rich and generous with more tropical as well as stone fruit.  The acidity is low and the alcohol is a little high so be sure to serve this wine well chilled.  I really like this wine and would strongly recommend it as well as other great Ehrenfelsers from around BC.

Muscat Ottonel is a grape that comes from central Europe and produces wines that are floral, elegant and generally have a bit of sweetness.  Staying in BC, we tasted the Hillside Estate Muscat Ottonel, 2009 ($23.99 #434803 Specialty Stores).  From the Naramata Bench region of the Okanagan, this wine has beautiful light floral and citrus aromas.  The palate is fresh and floral with vibrant acidity.  This is a cool Muscat because it’s quite dry.  The flavours are there to appreciate, but the finish is crisp and refreshing.

Down in the states some producers play around with a very obscure grape called Symphony. Commercially introduced in 1981, Symphony is a cross between the grapes Muscat of Alexandria and Grenache Gris.  Check out Ironstone “Obsession” Symphony, 2009 ($15.74  #355784) for its perfumed nose and fan friendly flavours.  The nose also shows some grapefruit and floral characteristics while on the palate there are some lavender and citrus fruit flavours.  I like the long finish with this wine as well.  I used to sell a ton of this wine when I ran a Thai restaurant up in Whistler, although I actually prefer it as an accompaniment to tropical fruit desserts like grilled pineapple with ice cream.

That’s it for today, but there are still more patio sippers coming to come.

Cheers,

Josh

www.summerhill.bc.ca

www.hillsideestate.com

www.ironstonevineyards.com

I know that I had promised you an article on Saltspring Island (and it’s still coming) but I wanted to fire off some of the results of last week’s aromatic white wine tastings.  We tasted a lot of different wines so instead of one massive e-mail I’ll send out 3-4 smaller ones in the next couple of weeks.

When we talk about aromatic white wines, we’re referring to white grapes with pronounced aromas and flavours.  These wines can be dry or sweet with varying levels of acidity.  Also, this encompasses a large number of grapes with many different characteristics.  Last week we were able to taste some underappreciated and obscure white grapes – the freaks and geeks with a little something special to offer.

We start our tour in the Marche region of Italy with Marotti Campi “Luzano” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore – Marche, Italy ($19.99  #916098).  Though not really considered as an aromatic varietal, this wine has some great aromatic characteristics.  A floral bouquet with hints of citrus and melon with a little minerality.  The palate is medium bodied with light fruit and almond flavours, great acidity and a crisp, dry finish.  Verdicchio (vehr-DEEK-Kyoh) is a great food grape and I would strongly encourage you to try this and other Verdicchios in our market.

Telmo Rodriguez “Basa” Vino Blanca, 2008 ($18.99  #586016) is from the Rueda region of Spain.  The grapes are the Spanish natives Verdejo (vehr-Day-yoh) and Viura (vee-YOO-rah) with a little Sauvignon Blanc thrown in for good measure.  The nose is light and floral with aromas of grapefruit and green grapes.  The palate is fresh and lively with great acidity and bright fruit flavours.  A medium bodied white wine with a nice long finish this is a perfect ‘tapas on a patio’ wine.

Over to the north of Portugal where the region of Vinho Verde specializes in crisp aromatic whites made from native grape varietals.   Quinta da Aveleda Vinho Verde, 2008 ($13.99  #114223) is no different.  Made from 3 native grapes; Loureiro (loo-REH-roh), Trajadura (trah-jah-DOO-rah) and Alvarinho (ahl-vah-REE-nyoh), this wine has a fresh and light nose with aromas of light tropical fruits and flowers.  A vibrant palate with citrus flavours and green apple with crisp acidity and a refreshing finish.  There is also the presence of light bubbles in the glass.  This is something that is done on purpose in Vinho Verde and just adds to the refreshing appeal of the wine.  I’ve also talked about Vinho Verde wines in Issues two and ten so check them out for some more information.

More aromatic whites coming your way very soon.

Cheers,

Josh

Continuing from last issue we’re talking about new world Chardonnay.  When we say the “new world” in wine speak, essentially we’re talking about everywhere but Europe. I left off talking about the crisp, refreshing style of Chablis where oak is only used as an accent and not as the main event.  Many wineries in the new world produce their own interpretations of the un-oaked Chardonnay style.

I’m still trying to figure out why this shirt is available in men’s sizes.

Alkoomi “Unwooded” Chardonnay, 2008 ($18.99  #917153 Specialty Stores) is from the Frankland River region of South Western Australia.  The wines of this region differ from the most other parts of Australia in that the climate isn’t as hot and the wines tend to be lighter and more elegant.  The wine is crisp and clean with a chalky, clay, mineral nose and a pleasant light aroma of tropical fruits.  The palate has ripe tropical fruit flavours with citrus notes and I like the fresh acidity that guides you into the long fruit driven finish.  A great summer wine from a lesser known Australian wine region.

Let’s continue island hopping and visit the north island of New Zealand.  The region of Hawkes Bay is just south of the middle of the island on the east coast side.  Here, Sauvignon  Blanc takes a back seat as Chardonnay is the dominate white grape.  I like this wine because it shows that Chardonnay is not only great on its own but can also be blended with other grapes which give a different depth of flavours among other qualities.  Paritua Vineyards Mount George “White Wire”, 2008  ($21.99  #888354 Specialty Stores) is mostly Chardonnay, but has little bits of Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Riesling.  Each of these 4 grapes adds their own elements of smell, taste and style.  The nose is bright and slightly perfumed with aromas of peaches, nectarines, tropical and lychee fruit flavours.  The palate is ripe and generous and makes me thing of fruit salad.  This is another un-oaked Chardonnay where the focus is more on the crisp refreshing fruit flavours.  Medium acidity and a light finish make this another perfect summer wine.  This was a pleasant surprise at our tasting and it made people think about the wine as a whole and not just the fact that it was Chardonnay heavy.

We make some pretty damn fine Chardonnay’s here in BC as well.  Chardonnay is a hearty grape and performs well in most climates including the great white north.  We had a couple at our tasting and were impressed by both.  Mission Hill “Reserve” Chardonnay VQA, 2007   ($18.99  #18812) has a big creamy tropical nose with flavours of pineapple, papaya and citrus flavours.  The palate was rich and fruity with more of those tropicals as well as a little poached pear flavour.  Partial oak barrel fermentation coupled with malolactic fermentation and lees aging add big depth and complexity.  A rich mouthfeel with nice acidity and a long finish make this a great Chardonnay for the money.

Lake Breeze “Seven Poplars” Chardonnay VQA, 2008  ($25.00  #353821  Specialty Stores) turned out to be best in show that evening.  The group was most impressed that this Chardonnay came from a BC winery.   I’ve always been a fan of this wine and think that it ranks right up there with the best Chardonnays in BC.  The nose is distinctly oaked with a creamy, buttery flavour, but with some bright citrus and light tropical fruit aromas. The palate is much the same with a great balance of textures and flavours.  Nice acidity and a long creamy finish.  This wine hails from the beautiful Naramata Bench on the south east side of Okanagan Lake.  If you’re wine touring in the Okanagan be sure to give yourself an afternoon checking out the diversity of wineries along the Naramata Bench.

Benziger Chardonnay, 2007  ($27.99 #256388) is an organically grown and biodynamically made wine from the Carneros region of California.  Bright tropical aromas highlight the nose showing pineapple, papaya, banana and peaches with hints of vanilla.  The palate is generous with a tonne of bright fruit and some nice oak flavours.  Soft vanilla and a creamy mouthfeel leading to some acidity and a nice medium length finish.  This isn’t the offensive style of Chardonnay that has turned many off of California. Instead, this is a wine that can bring them back.

those are 5 great Chardonnays that most wine drinkers will enjoy.   Although if you do happen to have a Douchebag on your shopping list I recommend this one here.

The next wine tasting is on the 10th and 11th of June and we’re going to taste some different aromatic white wines.  Get ready for patio season with a fresh batch of summer wines. The cost is only twenty bucks for 6-8 wines and some expert advice.  Click the link on the right for more info.

I may or may not have visited Salt Spring Island recently.  You’ll have to check out the next issue to find out.

Cheers,

Josh

www.alkoomiwines.com.au

www.oceaniawinegroup.com

www.missionhillwinery.com

www.lakebreeze.ca

www.benziger.com

So I’m changing up the format a little bit.  I’ve come to the realization that writing is not easy work.  Even though you have a head full of ideas it always seems much more difficult to get them on the screen.  Motivation can also be a huge factor, especially when you’re not making any money from the writing… yet.  Anyways, I’ve done away with myself imposed deadlines and will make my posts a little smaller.  Maybe splitting one subject into 2 articles or something along those lines.  I’m also going to try to inject a little more fun back into my writing as well… I’m still unsure as to what I mean by that, but I have a feeling that you’ll be seeing more AC/DC videos.

Last month I led a group through a tasting of Chardonnays from around the globe.  At the beginning of the tasting I asked everyone if they drank Chardonnay often, or even at all.  Not one hand went up and I wasn’t the least bit surprised.  Chardonnay has received a bad rap in the past mostly due to the surge of the bold, creamy and very oaky styles that were coming out of California.  What most people don’t know is that Chardonnay is very versatile and can be made into many different styles of wine.  It’s a grape that really adapts well to its terroir.  From lean and crisp to rich and round, including everything in between, there is a Chardonnay out there to suit everyone’s taste.

Chardonnay originates from the Burgundy region of France.  In fact it’s one of only 2 white grapes allowed to be grown in Burgundy (Ok, there is one small appellation where Sauvignon Blanc is grown, but it’s the exception – not the rule). The other grape is the much less interesting Aligoté, and trust me you don’t want me to do an entire article on Aligoté.

Now, I could ramble on about Burgundy and all of its greatness, but I want to save that for another time.  Believe me, there is a lot to know about the region.  Just know that

1. White Burgundy is Chardonnay and

2. White Burgundy is considered to be the greatest expression of the grape

Louis Latour AC Bourgogne Chardonnay, 2007 (#55533  $20.99) is a textbook example of White Burgundy.  The nose is a little subdued with tropical fruit aromas and a bit of minerality.  The palate is much more generous with tropical fruit salad, and a buttery, creamy flavour.  Vibrant acidity, hints of mineral and a smooth creamy finish.  No oak has been used for this wine, but it has gone through 100% malolactic fermentation.  (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malolactic_fermentation)  This is what gives some Chardonnays that creamy, buttery flavour.

When looking at a map of the region you’ll notice that there is an appellation in the North West that isn’t connected to the rest of Burgundy.  This is the wonderful appellation of Chablis.  Here the Chardonnay grape is praised for being a different sort of animal.  Crisp and clean with lots of flint and minerality, the terroir is really what makes Chablis.  This is the Chardonnay for those who prefer something a little more lean and crisp over the oaked, buttery style.

William Fevre “Champs Royaux” AC Chablis, 2007 (#25270  $28.99) has aromas of crisp tart citrus, grassiness and mineral notes.  Fresh, clean acidity with flavours of lemon, lime and tart grapefruit and green apple with a crisp refreshing and delicate finish.  Most of this wine was aged in small stainless steel vats to preserve the freshness, except for 10% that was aged in French oak barrels to add a little depth and complexity to the wine. With its vibrant acidity Chablis makes a terrific food wine, especially with shellfish. 

I’ll be back soon with Chardonnay Part 2 where I’ll be talking about a bunch of Chardonnay’s from everywhere else but France.  Until then, this little nugget of comedic genius should tide you over. http://www.vidstogo.com/player.php?vfname=snl12a&ext=wmv

Our next tasting will focus on aromatic white wines and will take place on Thursday June 10th.  Summer is coming and these are the perfect summer wines.  Just click on the link on the right side of the page.

Cheers,

Josh

www.louislatour.com

www.williamfevre.fr

We’re less than a week away from the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival. The regional theme countries this year are Argentina and New Zealand and the Global Focus wine is Rosé. Because there are so many great wines to mention I’m just going to give you a little background on each country and hope that you make some discoveries on your own.

New Zealand is a relatively young wine-making country but they do things the right way. Focusing on grapes that they excel at has really pushed New Zealand into the ranks of top fine wine making countries. Sauvignon Blanc is the major white grape and Pinot Noir is the leading red. Also grown with success is Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewurztraminer. After Pinot Noir other red grapes that do well in New Zealand are Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The latter two are most commonly seen blended together. Of course there are other white and red grapes grown and used in making wine but these are produced in much lesser quantities.

There are ten major wine growing regions in New Zealand and each region has it’s own specialty The regions are from north to south Northland, Auckland, Waikato/Bay of Plenty, Gisborne, Hawke’s Bay and Wellington on the North Island. On the South Island the regions are Nelson, Marlborough, Canterbury/Waipara and Central Otago. When tasting New Zealand wines at the festival be sure to not only note the grape varietal but also the region Check out Sauvignon Blancs from Marlborough, Pinot Noirs from Central Otago and Syrah from Hawke’s Bay. There are 43 different wineries represented at the festival this year, so there is a great variety of wines to taste and compare.

Wine making in Argentina goes back more than 400 year when Spanish explorers first brought grape vines over from Europe. A proper temperature, long sun exposure sessions, low rainfall levels and humidity, and no strong winds together with exceptional soils, created the best ecological ambiance for the production of top quality grapes. The most important wine regions of the country are located in the provinces of Mendoza and San Juan and La Rioja. Salta, Catamarca, Río Negro.

Malbec is the grape that Argentina has really championed and has been the wine that the country is most known for. Other red grapes grown in large quantities are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, Sangiovese and Pinot Noir. The second most planted red varietal is the lesser Bonarda grape. Known as Chabono in California, Bonarda actually originates from the Savoie wine region in the French Alps. Bonarda is high in tannin and acidity which makes it an excellent grape for blending. Pedro Gimenez is the most widely planted white grape in Argentina and is used to make fortified Sherry style wines rarely seen outside of the country. The second most planted grape is called Torrontes, a grape that originates from the somewhere in the Eastern Mediterranean. The signature white grape of Argentina is crisp and aromatic with an unmistakable floral nose. After that we also see great wines produced from Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Semillion, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Viognier. With 36 different Argentinian wineries at the festival there are many different wines for you to explore.

I talked about Rosé wines back in Issue Number 12 (July 2009) so check out that article to learn a little more about the style. The Playhouse has always wanted to do a focus on Rosé wines but the timing just wasn’t there. Thanks to the Olympics this year the dates for the wine festival were pushed back. This allows us to see many of the 2009 Rosés, some of these being tasted by the public for the very first time. There are loads of Rosé wines in the tasting room so have a blast and “sink the pink”.

Enjoy the festival this year.  I’ll be back soon with upcoming posts on Chardonnay, Port and Sherry.

Cheers,

Josh

www.playhousewinefest.com

www.winesofnz.com

www.winesofargentina.org

AC/DC – Sink The Pink

Way back in Issue Number Seven I talked about wine that didn’t need aging.  Now I want to talk about wines that age well and how best to let them age.

The whole “all wines improve with age” thing is a load of hooey.  It’s estimated that about 10% of red wines and 5% of white wines will improve significantly enough to make them more enjoyable after five years of age.  Less than 1% of wine made can last more than a decade.  There are a number of criteria necessary for a wine to be age worthy, but basically in red wine the most important preservative is the tannins and in white wine it’s the acid.  The ratio of sugars, acids and phenolic compounds (tannins etc) to water is a good indication of how well a wine will age. Icewine, for example has a very high sugar to water ratio and can age for quite a long time.

For the uninitiated, it can be difficult to know which wines are age worthy and which ones are not.  If only there was some sort of website offering unpretentious wine advice for the common wine drinker! The reality is that some wines are just made to be drunk later in their life. Some people hold on to these wines as their “treasures” others just appreciate drinking great wine when it should be drunk. Either way I encourage you to start holding on to some better bottles. A great bottle of wine can really enhance a special occasion.

So, how does one age a wine?  If you are really serious about saving wine for optimal drinking, you’ll need to set up a proper area to do it.  Direct sunlight, excessive heat or cold and fluctuations in the temperature are an aging wines biggest enemy.  If you have a basement in your house, that’s where wine should be kept.  Be sure to choose an area away from direct light and too much heat.  If you are in an apartment building and have a storage locker downstairs, then that’s your place to age wine.  The floor of a closet is a decent spot as well as a kitchen cabinet (away from the stove) or even your garage.  Be careful of the outside temperature if you’re storing wine in the garage though. This doesn’t mean that you have to stop using the rack in your living room. That’s where the everyday wine goes.

This issue I’ll share a few cellar worthy wines with you and in future issues I’ll let you know which wines are great for padding your home cellar. One thing to note is that ageability can often come with a price tag.  Think of these wines as an investment and when the time comes to drink them you should savour the experience.

Quality Riesling from Germany is an excellent candidate for your cellar. With elevated levels of sugars and acids the best can last more than 30 years. The Riesling grape is a favorite with wine professionals because they age longer than most any other white wine.  Selbach-Oster Riesling Spätlese Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, 2006 ($41.99 #788695) is from the Mosel region of Germany where the wines have a certain elegance.  Rich, yet lively with vibrant acidity and flavours of peach, apricot, lemon and lime.  Beautiful fruit with tones of slate and minerality leading to a long, rich finish.  This is serious Riesling that is delicious now, but can last for 15-20 years.  One note about aged Riesling is that it tends to take on a petrol aroma like diesel or gasoline.  This may sound odd, but trust me, it’s a good thing.  It only adds to the personality of aged Rieslings.

Chablis is a region in the north of Burgundy, France that makes all of its wines from the Chardonnay grape.  Chablis wines tend to be crisp and dry with lots of acidity and little or no oak influence.  Acidity is the real preservative here and the best Chablis wines can age between 15-20 years.  Domaine William Fevre Chablis Pemier Cru Beauroy, 2007 ($44.99 #206466) has a crisp minerality with mouth watering acidity.  Tart citrus flavours and aromas highlight the richness on the palate from partial aging in French oak barrels.  This wine will reach optimal drinking in 4-5 years, so you won’t have to wait forever to taste it at its best.

The 2006 Bordeaux release was last month and there were some great wines available for your home cellar. The great red wines of Bordeaux can be very well balanced and have exceptional potential for aging.  Chateau Giscours, 2006 ($79.00 #811836) is a classified third growth (more on that in another issue) from the Margaux region of Bordeaux.  A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.  On the nose there’s blackberry, stewed cherry, plum and black currant with herbaceous and light floral notes.  Full bodied with big fruit flavours, soft velvety tannins and a long luscious finish.  Best served with 8-12 years of bottle age.

Australian Shiraz is very popular these days due to their bold, fruit forwardness and good value.  There is some top quality Shiraz that is meant to be aged and enjoyed years after it was produced.  In fact, last week I had a dynamite Shiraz from 1994.  Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz, 2005 ($65.01 #510875) is aromatic and complex with lots of blackberry, cranberry and currant with spice flavours of cinnamon and anise. The palate is rich and complex with layers of red and black fruit, spice and earthy characteristics. The tannins are elegant and fruit driven as this wine has minimal oak influence. The St. Henri is well recognized for it’s purity of fruit and that’s what sets it apart from differs from most other great Shiraz.  This wine should peak between 2015 and 2020.

Next Wednesday and Thursday we’re doing a Champagne/Sparkling wine tasting at the Canadian Pacific Lawn Bowling club. The bubbles will flow and these tastings will be a lot of fun.  Let me know soon if you’d like to attend on either night.  In the next issue, I’ll report on some of the Sparkling wines that we tasted.

Cheers,

Josh

Welcome back. Sorry about the little break but I needed to take some time off to prepare for sommelier certification exam. I’m happy to be writing again so let’s get rolling.

So we’re a week and a half from the holiday that celebrates our glutinous side.  Ok, maybe that’s not what Thanksgiving is all about but the eating and drinking has to be part of the highlights  (especially with my family). When pairing wine with Thanksgiving dinner, it’s important to look at your plate on the whole.  Roast turkey is fairly easy to pair with but it’s everything else on your plate that makes it a little tricky.  Be it yams, potatoes, cranberry sauce, gravy or, God forbid, brussel sprouts.  The good thing is you that can drink red, white, pink or sparkling so whatever you prefer, you’ll be covered.  The trick is to drink the right wine that won’t overpower the dish or be lost in the abundance of flavours.

Sparkling wine is great anytime but really great with turkey dinner as the acidity and bubble can cut through the richer components on the plate.  When choosing the right one the key is to stay clear of the sweet stuff and focus on the crisp and dry or slightly off-dry styles.  Deinhard “Lila Imperial” Riesling Sekt, NV from Germany ($15.49 #159558) has crisp acid and elegant light citrus and stone fruit flavours with a hint of honey showing the way a little richness in the wine. This is one of my favourite sparkling wines to have around for any old weekday night.  Rosé bubble is very versatile and can work with appetizers all the way through dessert. Try Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noir, NV ($23.99 #100693) from California.  A delicate salmon colour with flavours of currant, strawberry and cherry dominate the nose and palate.  Crisp and refreshing with a soft, slightly creamy texture. Although pink sparkling wine is delicious anytime of the day, I think that you’ll find that a cold beer is the better match when the football game is on.

If white wine is your bag then I recommend something that has richness, acidity and a little body to it.  I also like white blends as you have the best bits of each grape to draw from.  Wirra Wirra Scrubby Rise White, 2008 ($15.99 #19372) from South Australia is one such wine.  A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Viognier this wine has fresh fruit flavours, vibrant acidity and nice weight.  Tropical and citrus fruit flavours with orange blossom and floral notes coming from the Viognier.  A little body and intensity on the palate with zesty acidity and a crisp finish.  A dynamite food wine that is suited for more than just Thanksgiving.  Gewürztraminer also has the qualities we seek for the big feast as well as delicate spicy notes that work well with some of the other aspects of the dinner.  See Ya Later Ranch Gewürztraminer, 2008 ($17.01 #868067) has a spicy aroma with lychee fruit, pink grapefruit and floral notes.  The palate is rich and fresh with flavours of melon and lychee, crisp acidity and a slightly off dry finish.

If you are a fan of the dark meat and cranberry sauce then red wine is a better fit for you. For reds you want to try something lighter with lower tannins and some decent acidity.   Pinot Noir is a good choice as it can subtly support most of what’s on your plate.  Stay local and try one of the best of BC.  Quail’s Gate Pinot Noir, 2007 ($24.99 #585760) has lively aromas of cherry and spice coupled with a palate that reveals fine tannins and a soft, silky texture.  I also love this wine’s long and lingering finish.  The best BC producers can make Pinot Noir that is both elegant and complex.   Sangiovese is one of the most food friendly grapes and a personal favourite of mine.  For those that don’t know, this is the great red grape of Tuscany and most importantly, Chianti.  Chianti can have a varied taste but one thing that all the decent ones possess is great acidity which makes it such a stellar and versatile food wine.  Frescobaldi “Nipozzano” Chianti Rufina Riserva, 2005 ($24.99 #107276) made Wine Spectator Magazine’s “Top 100 Wines of the Year” for 2008.  (#76 if you really must know.)  A versatile wine that over delivers for the price, it’s one of my favourites to sell at the restaurant.  Nipozzano offers plums and cherries with floral hints and a bit of chocolate.  Medium bodied with a well balanced palate, soft tannins and a long clean finish.  There are many other red wines that will work as well.  Try a Syrah, Barbera or Zinfandel but remember to choose examples that are on the softer side.

Wine is only a minor part of the Thanksgiving weekend so drink whatever you want, just be sure to enjoy it with family and friends.  They are the ones that we should truly be thankful for.

The monthly tastings are back as well.  The theme this time is Merlot and there will be 2 chances to taste next week.  Sunday October 4th at 1:00pm and Wednesday October 7th at 7:00pm.  Tastings will be held at the Canadian Pacific Lawn Bowling Club at 720 Belleville Street in Victoria.  Let me know if you are interested and which tasting you would like to attend.

One more note for the collectors out there.  Be sure to check out the 2006 Bordeaux release this weekend.  Though not as impressive as the mighty 2005 vintage there are some gems not to be overlooked.  You can check out what will be available on the BCLDB website.  Just click on the link below.

That’s all for now.  I’ll be back in a couple of weeks.

Cheers,

Josh

The end is almost near…for patio season that is.  Enjoy the rest of the summer while you can and listen to me when I tell you what you should be drinking.  There is one twist though, as the wines in this issue are ones that are often overlooked and underappreciated. Here are five aromatic white grapes that have been around for a while but the real beauty is that they may be new to you.

The Piedmont region of north-east Italy is well known for its red wine production.  This is where you find Barolo and Barbaresco and the grapes Nebbiolo, Barbara and Dolcetto reign supreme.  Although red is the king around here, there are a couple of white grapes native to Piedmont that make some terrifically interesting wines.  The first one is called Cortese (core-TAYS-eh) and is the grape responsible for the wines of the Gavi region making crisp, dry and light bodied wines with lemon and flint aromas.  Bracing acidity is one of its drawing cards coupled with a long refreshing finish.  Aging Gavi is a big no no as it needs to be drunk young and racy.  Gavi wines are great seafood wines and also work well with garlic flavours.  Try Principessa Gavia Gavi D.O.C.G, 2008 ($23.99 #162271). Another favourite, although a little more obscure is the ancient Armies (Are-NAYS) grape.  Arneis almost went extinct some years ago but was saved by a few notable Nebbiolo producers.  The white grape Arneis is sometimes blended with red grapes of the area in an effort to soften tannins in the finished wine.  On its own Arneis makes a light to medium bodied wine with delicious aromas and flavours of pear and almond.  I love that this wine has crisp acidity and can have a bit of body which makes it a great match for hearty white fish like halibut.  Arneis is even starting to show up internationally in places like Australia and California.  Damilano Arneis, 2007 ($21.99 #362616) is a great example from one of the savior Nebbiolo producers I spoke of earlier.

A quick flight over to the Northwest of Spain takes us to the Galicia region where we look at Albariño (Ahl-bah-REEN-yoh).  The origin of the Albariño grape is up for discussion but now it is grown almost exclusively in the Galician region of Riax Biaxes (REE-ahs bi-SHAS) and in the Vinho Verde region of Portugal where it’s called Alvarinho.  (My affection towards Vinho Verde is well known.  Have a look at issues number 2 and 10. )  Spanish wine made from Albariño are very aromatic and can have aromas and flavours of apple, citrus, peach and almond working alongside a floral and often herbal component.  Like the Gavi there is lots of acidity making Albariño a perfect seafood match.  Also, like Gavi these wines should be embraced in their youth and never to be aged.  Martin Códax “Burgans” Riax Biaxes Albariño, 2008 ($23.99 #226795) is a great example.

Often overlooked at the liquor store, Greece makes great wines both red and white.  Delicious and unique, most Greek wines are made from native grapes which can make it quite confusing for the consumer to know what they are getting.  Moschofilero (moh-skoh-FEE-leh-roh) is an aromatic grape with aromas of violet, roses and hints of spice.  Citrus flavours dominate the fruit portion with lemon, orange and hints of grapefruit leading the way with crisp and generous acidity.  Oh, and similar to the Pinot Gris grape, Moschofilero wines can have a pink tinge to them.  Admittedly, we don’t have much choice in Moschofilero in the BC market but what we have is worth a shot.  Boutari Moschofilero, 2008 ($19.20 #177154) is the appetizer wine the next time you go for Greek food.

One of the favourite white grapes among the wine nerd community is Grüner Veltliner (GROO-ner FELT-lih-ner).  The most widely planted grape in Austria can make wines of exceptional quality and ageability.  Grüner Veltliner makes a wine of interesting and unique flavours in even the simplest of styles.  The spicy fragrance of fresh ground white pepper is Grüner Veltliners most telling characteristic but it also has a curious green vegetable aroma of asparagus and green beans.  As well as the funky aromas also look for beautiful citrus and ripe grapefruit flavours.  Crisp acidity and some minerality drive the palate which can range from light bodied and fresh to medium bodied and fairly rich.  Grüner Veltliner is a favourite with sommeliers for its uncanny ability to pair with ingredients that are tough to match up such as artichokes and asparagus.  Check out Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner, 2007 ($19.99 #134783) for a terrific example of what Grüner Veltliner is all about.

So go forth and impress your friends with your new found knowledge but don’t forget to tell them where you got it.  Have them sign up for the newsletter so that they can also spread the good word of wine.

Enjoy the sunshine out there.

Cheers,

Josh

www.vigneregali.com

www.cantinedamilano.it

www.martincodax.com

www.boutari.gr

www.gobelsburg.com