Modern Palate Wine Advice

I can only assume that you’ve noticed the growing number of wines now coming with a twist off cap.  Historically you would only see a screw cap on the cheapest and lowest quality or “jug” wines.  Today we’re getting all kinds of high quality wines sealed with a twist.  Also known as the “Stelvin Closure”, the brand name of screw cap that seems to be the most popular.  Of course, cork is the classic wine seal, but its popularity is now dwindling.

Cork is a natural product that comes from the bark of the Cork Oak tree most commonly found in Portugal and Spain.  Once the trees are about 25 years old, only then can the bark be harvested.   The trees can live between 150-200 years and the bark can only be harvested every 9-12 years.

The classic cork has long been seen as a problem for wineries.  There is a chemical compound within cork by the name of trichloroanisole (called TCA by those in the know) that can cause spoilage in wine.  If your wine smells musty or moldy then your wine is probably “corked”.  If you are in a restaurant, then send it back.  If you bought it from a store then you can take it back to get a replacement bottle.  It’s best to have your receipt though.  Oxidization is another common problem.  Basically, too much air has gotten into the bottle due to a faulty cork.  This leads to a discoloration in the wine and a vinegar-like aroma.  Unless you’ve bought a bottle of sherry, this is a major problem.

With the screw cap, these problems are not a worry.  I’m not saying that all screw cap wines are perfect, but it’s a good bet that the wine inside that bottle will get to you as the winemaker intended it to.  The cork has always been the seal of choice for wines that require aging.  However, most of the wine produced in the world today is not meant to be aged for long and therefore might as well be sealed with a screw.

So let’s leave the corkscrew in the drawer this time, as all of the following wines have a screw cap on top.

New Zealand is the industry leader in screw cap wines with an estimated 90% of all wines produced being sealed with a twist.  Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region is the perfect wine for a screw cap seal.  I did a Sauvignon Blanc tasting last week and one of the hits was Babich Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 ($18.99  #560144).  With very strong aromas that jump right out of the glass.  Passionfruit, gooseberry, and vibrant tropical notes coupled with a grassy herbaceuosness.  The mouth was filled with concentrated fruit flavours and vibrant acidity.  The Babich is a real crowd pleaser.  New Zealand is also famous for its Pinot Noir and we see a bunch of great ones.  Try Stoneleigh Pinot Noir, 2007 ($22.99  #610857) with a fragrant bouquet of  black cherry, raspberry and red plums overlaid with a savoury toasty spice.  The palate is ripe and rich with dark, red berry fruit flavours.  A soft and supple wine with fine, well integrated tannins.

If New Zealand is leading the charge then Australia comes in second in the screw cap wine race.  Peter Lehmann Barossa Valley Semillon, 2006 ($15.99  #572412) has vibrant lemon and grapefruit notes with a youthful zestiness.  Bright and crisp citrus flavours with enough mouth-watering acidity to balance it all out.  The Margaret River in Western Australia has a cooler climate and produces wines that have a distinct elegance.  Evans and Tate Margaret River Shiraz, 2004 ($19.99  #587469) has big, ripe cherry and blackcurrant aromas with subtle smoke and cigar box smells from its fermentation in oak barrels.  The palate exudes black cherry and mulberry fruit flavours with hints of spice, fine, soft tannins and a silky lingering finish.

The BC wine industry is coming around when it comes to screw caps.  Thankfully we are seeing a lot of wineries changing their ways.  Check out the aromatic white blend Blasted Church “Hatfield’s Fuse”, 2007 ($16.99 #734475).  The nose has a fragrance of ginger, orange, pear, citrus and honey.  The palate shows more of the same as well as a bit of melon and tropical flavours.  Light and refreshing with a slightly spicy finish make it great for summer patio sipping.  Quail’s Gate Chardonnay, 2006 ($18.99  #377770) has aromas of rich tropical fruits, biscuit and creamy butter.  The palate is rich, complex and silky smooth and the oak just adds to the wine without overpowering the fruit flavours.  Tinhorn Creek Winery has gone 100% screw cap.  Check out their website for more info regarding screw cap vs. Cork.  Tinhorn Creek Merlot, 2006 ($18.99  #530725) has aromas red fruit, cocoa, spice and bit of wood. The palate is packed with plum and black cherry leading into a long, smooth and smoky finish.

Despite being around for a long time, the idea of putting a screw cap on “fine” or even “quality” wines is relatively new.  The fact that it is being embraced by young, progressive wine regions is no coincidence.  Some wine regions in Europe are coming around, but very slowly.  Youthful German Rieslings are a perfect candidate for the screw job and there are some great examples sold here in Canada.  Dr. Loosen “Dr. L” Riesling QBA, 2008 ($18.99  #599274) displays  the elegant yet racy style that Germany is famous for.  Fruity and crisp with flavours of peach, grapefruit and minerality with bright, refreshing acidity and a long subtle finish.  Also try Balthasar Ress Riesling QBA, 2007 ($15.99  #250506) for a wine with similar crispness and minerality.  Crisp citrus flavours coupled with lots of acid and a long, flavourful finish makes this wine very refreshing and will leave you wanting more.

Every so often I like a splash of Rye.  Wiser’s Deluxe was my favourite for the longest time, but now that my tastes are more refined I prefer a good sipping Rye.  Wiser’s Small Batch Canadian Whisky ($29.95  #337451) has a deep amber colour and a nose of bold oak with touches of caramel and honey.  Round, full and warming flavours with hints of spice and a sweet smooth finish.  I’ll take two fingers of Small Batch with a couple of ice cubes.

As I mentioned before, we had a great Sauvignon Blanc tasting last week.  The next one will be sometime in July and our subject will be Rosés.  We’ll look at various examples of pink wine from around the globe.  July looks to be a busy month and I’ve yet to choose the date but I will let you know when I do.

Cheers,

Josh

http://www.babichwines.co.nz

http://www.stoneleigh.co.nz

http://www.peterlehmannwines.com.au

http://www.evansandtate.com.au

http://www.quailsgate.com

http://www.blastedchurch.com

http://www.tinhorn.com

http://www.drloosen.com

http://www.balthasar-ress.de/en

http://www.wisers.ca

Ok, I thought that it may be time to get specific. Every once in a while I will focus on a particular wine region or grape variety. This gives you the opportunity to learn about where your wines come from and why they taste the way they do. All wine is different and It’s my intent to give a little insight into the personality that is coming from inside the bottle.

On the map of France, Alsace is located in the upper right hand corner. Alsace borders Germany on the Rhine River, and if you know your history, you’ll know that the Alsace-Lorraine region has bounced back and forth between French and German control. This actually had a large influence in how the wine from Alsace is packaged. Alsace is the only classic French wine region to have their wines labelled by grape variety. This means that the grape named on the front label is what makes up the wine inside. Other regions such as Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne are labelled by place name so it’s up to you to figure out what grapes are making the wine inside. (Don’t you worry though; I can help you with that as well.)

The region of Alsace has a cooler grape growing climate than most of the world’s major wine regions. This is a region of elegant white wines and very little red. In fact, the only red grape that the French wine laws allow is Pinot Noir and it is grown in very small quantities. In fact, we don’t even see Alsatian red wine in BC. We do see a bit of Rosé but usually in the form of sparkling wine. The white grapes that we’re talking about here are Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Muscat and Sylvaner.

Lucien Albrecht Crémant d’Alsace Blanc de Blanc, NV ($27.99 #657742) is a sparkling wine made from the Pinot Blanc grape. A Great value when you compare it to Champagne this wine is light and delicate with a refreshing, bubbly mouthfeel and crisp citrus fruit flavours. If you like your sparkling to have a little colour, then try Pierre Sparr Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rose, NV ($28.99 #171983). A true pink colour with flavours of raspberries, strawberries and ripe cranberries. A nice body with delicate bubbles, lively acidity and a clean, dry finish. The word “Crémant” refers to sparkling wine made in France but outside of Champagne. There are seven specific regions where the Crémant name can be used. (There is one exception that falls outside of France. Crémant de Luxembourg.)

There is a blend that some winemakers in Alsace called “Edelzwicker” which translates into “noble wine”. This can be a blend of any of the Alsatian white grape varieties. Hugel “Gentil”, 2007 ($20.99 #367284) is one such example and is a blend of Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat and Sylvaner. Quite floral with notes of honeysuckle, orange, lemon and lime. On the palate the floral notes are punctuated by apricot, nectarine and apple flavours. Crisp and dry with lilting acidity this wine is great with spicy foods like Thai or Indian.

Top quality Alsatian wines are something special. We did a Pinot Gris tasting last month and one of the wines opened was Pfaffenheim Tokay Pinot Gris Steinart Grand Cru, 2004 ($33.95 #147280). A deep golden colour the nose was alive with flavours of pear, apricot and tropical fruits. The palate is fat and rich with those same flavours as well as a little honey and gingerbread. Just enough acidity and a long finish round out this dynamite wine.

This is just an introduction so now it’s your job to go forth and sample the wines of Alsace, France. Please drop me a line and let me know what you’ve discovered.

Local spirits are featured in out “Not Wine” section this issue. Island Spirits Distillery is situated on Hornby Island and is producing top quality Vodka and Gin. Quite new and fairly unknown, they are actually selling more in the Edmonton and Calgary areas but consumers closer to home are beginning to take notice. Phrog Vodka ($50.00 #586537) and Phrog Gin ($50.00 #30171) are both made with one goal in mind, purity. In fact, their claim is that their spirits do not cause hangovers or trigger allergies. (I’ll have to do the research and get back to you at a later date.) I especially enjoyed the Gin, with a special blend of 14 botanicals. I liked the prominent anise flavour that this Gin has. It definitely makes a unique and delicious martini.

We’re doing a Syrah/Shiraz tasting tomorrow. If you are in Victoria and would like to join the fun then just drop me a line.

Cheers,

Josh

www.lucien-albrecht.com

www.vins-sparr.com

www.hugel.com

www.pfaffenheim.com

www.islandspirits.ca

Hey, what’s happening?  I want to thank all of the new subscribers that we’ve had over the past couple of weeks.  A special shout those over in Alberta.  Mmmm……Beefy.

Now, I was hoping to include a Q&A section in this newsletter but so far I haven’t been asked one wine question.  No Q means no A, so fire them at me. Help me help you.

I want to briefly talk about the vintages of wines.  Almost every wine is vintage dated, which means that the wine inside comes from that particular year.  Of course, every growing season is different.  There are many factors that relate to the vintage but the most important on that we look at is variance in temperature.  To cool of a year and the grapes don’t ripen enough, to warm a vintage and the grapes get to ripe.  The best vintages are the ones that lie right in the middle.  In the old world wine regions (Europe) there is more variation in vintage than in the new world ones.

There are many arguments about the importance of vintages, especially in the new world.  Lord knows, I’m not getting in the middle of that one but what I will say about it though, is that there is less variation than there was 20-30 years ago.  I worked in retail for a few months, and my biggest complaint about Joe Every wine Buyer was that they would “freak” out if the ten dollar bottle that they were looking for was the wrong vintage.  These days, the winemaker’s biggest concern is making a consistent product that the consumer can always rely on. So don’t worry that much about it, go ahead and try the vintage that they in stock.  Ok, if you are spending a bit more money on wine to put away and age for a while then it is worthwhile looking into seeing how that vintage was. The everyday drinkers are almost always going to suit your needs no matter the vintage. Purchase, drink, repeat if necessary.

A favourite white around our place is Miguel Torres “Viña Esmeralda”, 2007.  (#165316 $15.02) From Cataluña, the area around Barcelona, in Spain, this is a beautifully aromatic yet dry wine.  The grapes are Moscatel and Gewürztraminer which provide a delicate but intense and perfumed nose.  Crisp and silky in the mouth with plenty of soft fruit flavours.  It will pair well with some take out Indian food but I prefer a nice salad that includes some Serrano ham and fresh melon.

Looking for something with a little more body to it?  Check out Catena “Alamos” Chardonnay, 2007.  (#467969 $16.50) Consistently providing dynamite wines for the buck, the Alamos series from Catena shows what great value you can find in Argentina.  This Chardonnay is made for early drinking and shows nice tropical flavours as well as a little golden apple and citrus.  The mouth feel is rich and crisp.  Hints of oak and vanilla, leading way to those same tropical fruit flavours.  Don’t be afraid to try the other wines in this series as well.  I’m a big fan of their Malbec.

We all know that California is a great source of quality wines.  They are also a great source of really cheap wines that are better to cook with than drink.  The challenge is finding some good California wines that fall into that everyday price point.  Strolling through the liquor store today I was I found something new that I’d never seen or heard of before.  The challenge was on and the wine is Matchbook Syrah, 2006.  (#917708 $15.99) Matchbook is in the Dunnigan Hills area which is just north-west of Sacramento.  The wine is rich and full bodied with vibrant blueberry and light liquorice flavours.  The addition of 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petite Sirah (no relation) add a little depth and body to this wine.   Beautiful ripe and full in the mouth with very smooth inviting tannins.  I really dug this wine from the second I opened it.  It’s definitely the feel good wine of the week.

I do these wine tastings for friends once a month.  We choose a different grape each month and then do a tasting of at least 6 wines.  If you live in Vic and want some more info then drop me a line or join our Facebook group. http://www.facebook.com/home.php#/group.php?gid=61663027480 This month the theme was Cabernet Sauvignon.  We tasted some beauties, but there was one in particular that seemed to impress the crowd. Madfish Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, 2004  (#588871 $14.99) from the Margaret River in Western Australia.  The wine showed lots of berry fruit aromas, with black current and plum.  The Cab brings the structure and the Merlot delivers the fruit.  A little bit of Cabernet Franc is also included to tie the whole thing together.  Soft and rich on the palate with smooth easy tannins that take the wine all the way to its long and generous finish.  I must admit that this was the surprise of the tasting as it was not only the least expensive but also went up against some well known heavy hitters.  I have been to the Margaret River and, believe me, it’s a very special wine region.

Okanagan Spirits from Vernon is our “Not Wine” this issue.  OK Spirits began distilling in the fall of 2004 and currently making liqueurs, grappas and eau de vie from Okanagan Valley fruits.  I like the six different grappas all made from different grapes.  Also try the oak-aged, Old Italian Prune.  It’s a rich and fruity after dinner sipper.  They are also making real absinthe called Taboo.  (The good stuff with the previously banned, wormwood) Be careful though, it’s been known to cause ear loppage by post-impressionist artists.  Okanagan Sprits can be found in the government liquor stores and finer private stores all around BC and Alberta.

We are less than three weeks away from the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival and there are still tickets available.  My next issue will focus on the theme region, British Columbia.  I’ll also talk about some wines that you should look out for when making your way around the tasting room floor.

Have a great couple of weeks and I’ll be back to you soon.

Josh