Issue Number 27 – Patio Sippers Part III: Viognier’s Revenge
Ok, just a short one today and then I’ll be back soon with the big grand finale of the aromatic white wines.
Asking any wine expert about their favorite wines is a funny thing. You’ll be asked back questions like “what would I be eating with it?”, “what time of the day is it?”, “where would I be drinking it?” or “what colour would my underwear be at the time?” If it’s me and its white wine I’ve got to lean towards the Viognier grape. Something about the stone fruit flavours, and fruity and floral aromas. I love the richness that Viognier can have and its versatility with or without food. My only complaint about the grape is that it can lack acidity and if poorly made can be pretty unbalanced.
From the Rapel Valley in Chile comes Anakena Single Vineyard Viognier, 2008 ($15.96 #329755). Golden in colour the nose is intense with aromas of peach, apricot, floral and slightly spiced. The palate is elegant with stone fruit flavours and hints of citrus. A rich texture and a long generous finish. Viognier is a white grape that can take some oaking and for this wine we’re talking about 25% of the finished product has seen oak fermentation and aging.
The grape Viognier comes from the Rhone Valley in France. The 2 other most prestigious white grapes from that region are Marsanne and Roussanne. While those 2 grapes are natural blending partners they often invite Viognier to come and play. Twisted Tree Viognier/Roussanne, 2009 ($21.90 #743401) is a great example from Osoyoos, BC. Bold yet elegant aromas of peach, nectarine and orange blossoms lead to the palate that echoes those flavours. Nice weight and viscosity on the palate with a crisp, dry finish. No oak on this baby, its 100% stainless steel.
Viognier can be a bit of a bitch and most growers and winemakers don’t want to deal with but those that put in the time can produce some very rewarding results. Check out some examples from the Rhone Valley and the south of France for classical French Viognier. For some big and rich styles take a look at California and Australia. More specifically seek out some Yalumba from South Australia. They’ve really championed the grape down there and produce a half a dozen or so different Viognier wines. I would also recommend checking out other BC Viognier such as La Frenz and Sandhill.
One more aromatic blast to come with five more wines that pair well with chillin’ in the back yard.
Cheers,
Josh