May 27 2010

Issue Number Twenty Four – I Have a Chardonnay Part 2

Continuing from last issue we’re talking about new world Chardonnay.  When we say the “new world” in wine speak, essentially we’re talking about everywhere but Europe. I left off talking about the crisp, refreshing style of Chablis where oak is only used as an accent and not as the main event.  Many wineries in the new world produce their own interpretations of the un-oaked Chardonnay style.

I’m still trying to figure out why this shirt is available in men’s sizes.


Alkoomi “Unwooded” Chardonnay, 2008 ($18.99  #917153 Specialty Stores) is from the Frankland River region of South Western Australia.  The wines of this region differ from the most other parts of Australia in that the climate isn’t as hot and the wines tend to be lighter and more elegant.  The wine is crisp and clean with a chalky, clay, mineral nose and a pleasant light aroma of tropical fruits.  The palate has ripe tropical fruit flavours with citrus notes and I like the fresh acidity that guides you into the long fruit driven finish.  A great summer wine from a lesser known Australian wine region.

Let’s continue island hopping and visit the north island of New Zealand.  The region of Hawkes Bay is just south of the middle of the island on the east coast side.  Here, Sauvignon  Blanc takes a back seat as Chardonnay is the dominate white grape.  I like this wine because it shows that Chardonnay is not only great on its own but can also be blended with other grapes which give a different depth of flavours among other qualities.  Paritua Vineyards Mount George “White Wire”, 2008  ($21.99  #888354 Specialty Stores) is mostly Chardonnay, but has little bits of Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Riesling.  Each of these 4 grapes adds their own elements of smell, taste and style.  The nose is bright and slightly perfumed with aromas of peaches, nectarines, tropical and lychee fruit flavours.  The palate is ripe and generous and makes me thing of fruit salad.  This is another un-oaked Chardonnay where the focus is more on the crisp refreshing fruit flavours.  Medium acidity and a light finish make this another perfect summer wine.  This was a pleasant surprise at our tasting and it made people think about the wine as a whole and not just the fact that it was Chardonnay heavy.

We make some pretty damn fine Chardonnay’s here in BC as well.  Chardonnay is a hearty grape and performs well in most climates including the great white north.  We had a couple at our tasting and were impressed by both.  Mission Hill “Reserve” Chardonnay VQA, 2007   ($18.99  #18812) has a big creamy tropical nose with flavours of pineapple, papaya and citrus flavours.  The palate was rich and fruity with more of those tropicals as well as a little poached pear flavour.  Partial oak barrel fermentation coupled with malolactic fermentation and lees aging add big depth and complexity.  A rich mouthfeel with nice acidity and a long finish make this a great Chardonnay for the money.

Lake Breeze “Seven Poplars” Chardonnay VQA, 2008  ($25.00  #353821  Specialty Stores) turned out to be best in show that evening.  The group was most impressed that this Chardonnay came from a BC winery.   I’ve always been a fan of this wine and think that it ranks right up there with the best Chardonnays in BC.  The nose is distinctly oaked with a creamy, buttery flavour, but with some bright citrus and light tropical fruit aromas. The palate is much the same with a great balance of textures and flavours.  Nice acidity and a long creamy finish.  This wine hails from the beautiful Naramata Bench on the south east side of Okanagan Lake.  If you’re wine touring in the Okanagan be sure to give yourself an afternoon checking out the diversity of wineries along the Naramata Bench.

Benziger Chardonnay, 2007  ($27.99 #256388) is an organically grown and biodynamically made wine from the Carneros region of California.  Bright tropical aromas highlight the nose showing pineapple, papaya, banana and peaches with hints of vanilla.  The palate is generous with a tonne of bright fruit and some nice oak flavours.  Soft vanilla and a creamy mouthfeel leading to some acidity and a nice medium length finish.  This isn’t the offensive style of Chardonnay that has turned many off of California. Instead, this is a wine that can bring them back.

those are 5 great Chardonnays that most wine drinkers will enjoy.   Although if you do happen to have a Douchebag on your shopping list I recommend this one here.

The next wine tasting is on the 10th and 11th of June and we’re going to taste some different aromatic white wines.  Get ready for patio season with a fresh batch of summer wines. The cost is only twenty bucks for 6-8 wines and some expert advice.  Click the link on the right for more info.

I may or may not have visited Salt Spring Island recently.  You’ll have to check out the next issue to find out.

Cheers,

Josh

www.alkoomiwines.com.au

www.oceaniawinegroup.com

www.missionhillwinery.com

www.lakebreeze.ca

www.benziger.com


May 11 2010

Issue Number Twenty Three – I Have a Chardonnay

So I’m changing up the format a little bit.  I’ve come to the realization that writing is not easy work.  Even though you have a head full of ideas it always seems much more difficult to get them on the screen.  Motivation can also be a huge factor, especially when you’re not making any money from the writing… yet.  Anyways, I’ve done away with myself imposed deadlines and will make my posts a little smaller.  Maybe splitting one subject into 2 articles or something along those lines.  I’m also going to try to inject a little more fun back into my writing as well… I’m still unsure as to what I mean by that, but I have a feeling that you’ll be seeing more AC/DC videos.

Last month I led a group through a tasting of Chardonnays from around the globe.  At the beginning of the tasting I asked everyone if they drank Chardonnay often, or even at all.  Not one hand went up and I wasn’t the least bit surprised.  Chardonnay has received a bad rap in the past mostly due to the surge of the bold, creamy and very oaky styles that were coming out of California.  What most people don’t know is that Chardonnay is very versatile and can be made into many different styles of wine.  It’s a grape that really adapts well to its terroir.  From lean and crisp to rich and round, including everything in between, there is a Chardonnay out there to suit everyone’s taste.

Chardonnay originates from the Burgundy region of France.  In fact it’s one of only 2 white grapes allowed to be grown in Burgundy (Ok, there is one small appellation where Sauvignon Blanc is grown, but it’s the exception – not the rule). The other grape is the much less interesting Aligoté, and trust me you don’t want me to do an entire article on Aligoté.

Now, I could ramble on about Burgundy and all of its greatness, but I want to save that for another time.  Believe me, there is a lot to know about the region.  Just know that

1. White Burgundy is Chardonnay and

2. White Burgundy is considered to be the greatest expression of the grape

Louis Latour AC Bourgogne Chardonnay, 2007 (#55533  $20.99) is a textbook example of White Burgundy.  The nose is a little subdued with tropical fruit aromas and a bit of minerality.  The palate is much more generous with tropical fruit salad, and a buttery, creamy flavour.  Vibrant acidity, hints of mineral and a smooth creamy finish.  No oak has been used for this wine, but it has gone through 100% malolactic fermentation.  (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malolactic_fermentation)  This is what gives some Chardonnays that creamy, buttery flavour.

When looking at a map of the region you’ll notice that there is an appellation in the North West that isn’t connected to the rest of Burgundy.  This is the wonderful appellation of Chablis.  Here the Chardonnay grape is praised for being a different sort of animal.  Crisp and clean with lots of flint and minerality, the terroir is really what makes Chablis.  This is the Chardonnay for those who prefer something a little more lean and crisp over the oaked, buttery style.

William Fevre “Champs Royaux” AC Chablis, 2007 (#25270  $28.99) has aromas of crisp tart citrus, grassiness and mineral notes.  Fresh, clean acidity with flavours of lemon, lime and tart grapefruit and green apple with a crisp refreshing and delicate finish.  Most of this wine was aged in small stainless steel vats to preserve the freshness, except for 10% that was aged in French oak barrels to add a little depth and complexity to the wine. With its vibrant acidity Chablis makes a terrific food wine, especially with shellfish. 

I’ll be back soon with Chardonnay Part 2 where I’ll be talking about a bunch of Chardonnay’s from everywhere else but France.  Until then, this little nugget of comedic genius should tide you over. http://www.vidstogo.com/player.php?vfname=snl12a&ext=wmv

Our next tasting will focus on aromatic white wines and will take place on Thursday June 10th.  Summer is coming and these are the perfect summer wines.  Just click on the link on the right side of the page.

Cheers,

Josh

www.louislatour.com

www.williamfevre.fr