Modern Palate Wine Advice

It breaks my heart to say this but there are only five more wines to go.

On their own, Riesling and Gewürztraminer make some of the world’s greatest white wines.  Put them together and you get some really cool and interesting flavours.  Every wine maker that plays with this kind of blend has their own interpretation and style.  For this reason I love to taste every example I can.  Fun, unpretentious and easy drinking… hmmm, sounds like patio wine to me.

First up I want to talk about the big two on their own.  Tinhorn Gewürztraminer, 2009 ($18.99  #55913 Specialty Stores) is a dry style of Gewürztraminer with the floral characteristics that you would expect to see.  A vibrant nose with aromas of lychee, tropical fruits, rose blossom and hints of spice.  The palate is a fruit salad of tropical fruit, peach, crisp apple and honey with a crisp dry finish.  Gewürztraminer, like Riesling, is so often associated with sweeter wines and although floral, many of the wines are bone dry.  It’s a personal taste thing and my preference is for the dryer styles, but that’s just me.  You drink whatever you prefer.

The Riesling that we tasted was also from BC.  Ex Nihilo Riesling, 2007 ($25.99  #846808 Specialty Stores) has a classic Riesling aroma of fresh lemon, apple, peach and petrol.  (The petrol or diesel smell comes from aging Riesling… it’s a good thing.  Tell you more about it another time.)  The palate is vibrant and fresh with ripe fruit flavours, citrus and rose petal.  Loads of fresh acidity leads the way to the long viscous finish.  This is BC Riesling done right by an up and coming Okanagan Falls producer.

De Bortoli Traminer/Riesling, 2009  ($10.99  #952580), the lone foreigner in the group, is from the Riverina region of New South Wales, Australia.  The aroma is like a fruit salad assault on your nose.  Everything from lychee, stone, tropical and a little citrus fruit with floral hints rounding it out.  The palate is a little off-dry with more of the same fruit flavours, some nice acidity, and a long semi-sweet finish.

Rigamorole White?, 2008 ($14.99  #845552) is a blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer and other Germanic varietals (that’s what the label says) from the Okanagan Valley.  A great dry aromatic with a nose of peach, red grapefruit, orange and honeysuckle.  The palate is crisp and dry with bright fruit and fresh acidity.  The fact that it’s inexpensive and widely available really elevates this wine’s appeal.

Now there was one wine that did stand out as the “belle of the ball”. Wild Goose “Autumn Gold”, 2009 ($18.99  #414755) is a 3 grape blend from Okanagan Falls, BC. Here, Riesling and Gewürztraminer are joined by another friend, Pinot Blanc.  A lively and fruity nose with aromas of citrus, apple, apricot and honey.  The palate is soft and round with a ton of fruit, a hint of sweetness and crisp, refreshing acidity.  Cool fact about this wine; after the grapes are crushed and the juice is taken, some of that juice is saved to blend back into the wine at the end.  The wine is fermented to be dry and the juice added at the end sweetens the wine.  Originating in Germany this process is called Süssreserve.

Enjoy the patios.

Cheers,

Josh

www.tinhorn.com

www.exnihilovineyards.com

www.debortoli.com.au

www.artisanwineco.ca

www.wildgoosewinery.com

Ok, just a short one today and then I’ll be back soon with the big grand finale of the aromatic white wines.

Asking any wine expert about their favorite wines is a funny thing.  You’ll be asked back questions like “what would I be eating with it?”, “what time of the day is it?”, “where would I be drinking it?” or “what colour would my underwear be at the time?”  If it’s me and its white wine I’ve got to lean towards the Viognier grape.  Something about the stone fruit flavours, and fruity and floral aromas.  I love the richness that Viognier can have and its versatility with or without food.  My only complaint about the grape is that it can lack acidity and if poorly made can be pretty unbalanced.

From the Rapel Valley in Chile comes Anakena Single Vineyard Viognier, 2008 ($15.96  #329755).  Golden in colour the nose is intense with aromas of peach, apricot, floral and slightly spiced.  The palate is elegant with stone fruit flavours and hints of citrus.  A rich texture and a long generous finish.  Viognier is a white grape that can take some oaking and for this wine we’re talking about 25% of the finished product has seen oak fermentation and aging.

The grape Viognier comes from the Rhone Valley in France.  The 2 other most prestigious white grapes from that region are Marsanne and Roussanne.  While those 2 grapes are natural blending partners they often invite Viognier to come and play.  Twisted Tree Viognier/Roussanne, 2009 ($21.90 #743401) is a great example from Osoyoos, BC.  Bold yet elegant aromas of peach, nectarine and orange blossoms lead to the palate that echoes those flavours.  Nice weight and viscosity on the palate with a crisp, dry finish.  No oak on this baby, its 100% stainless steel.

Viognier can be a bit of a bitch and most growers and winemakers don’t want to deal with but those that put in the time can produce some very rewarding results.  Check out some examples from the Rhone Valley and the south of France for classical French Viognier.  For some big and rich styles take a look at California and Australia.  More specifically seek out some Yalumba from South Australia.  They’ve really championed the grape down there and produce a half a dozen or so different Viognier wines.  I would also recommend checking out other BC Viognier such as La Frenz and Sandhill.

One more aromatic blast to come with five more wines that pair well with chillin’ in the back yard.

Cheers,

Josh

www.anakenawines.cl

www.twistedtree.ca

Ring the bell; it’s time for round 2 of Aromatic White wine insanity.  I’ve got some off-dry wines that are a little off of the beaten track.

The first grape is Ehrenfelser (EHR-en-fehl-zuhr) which was created in 1929 by crossing the grapes Riesling and Silvaner.  The grape is of German origin and has really caught the interest of a few wineries in BC.  Hailing from Kelowna is Summerhill Ehrenfelser, 2007 ($24.99  #440016 Specialty Stores).  A real crowd pleaser, this wine has a very aromatic nose with aromas of tropical fruit and white roses.  The palate is rich and generous with more tropical as well as stone fruit.  The acidity is low and the alcohol is a little high so be sure to serve this wine well chilled.  I really like this wine and would strongly recommend it as well as other great Ehrenfelsers from around BC.

Muscat Ottonel is a grape that comes from central Europe and produces wines that are floral, elegant and generally have a bit of sweetness.  Staying in BC, we tasted the Hillside Estate Muscat Ottonel, 2009 ($23.99 #434803 Specialty Stores).  From the Naramata Bench region of the Okanagan, this wine has beautiful light floral and citrus aromas.  The palate is fresh and floral with vibrant acidity.  This is a cool Muscat because it’s quite dry.  The flavours are there to appreciate, but the finish is crisp and refreshing.

Down in the states some producers play around with a very obscure grape called Symphony. Commercially introduced in 1981, Symphony is a cross between the grapes Muscat of Alexandria and Grenache Gris.  Check out Ironstone “Obsession” Symphony, 2009 ($15.74  #355784) for its perfumed nose and fan friendly flavours.  The nose also shows some grapefruit and floral characteristics while on the palate there are some lavender and citrus fruit flavours.  I like the long finish with this wine as well.  I used to sell a ton of this wine when I ran a Thai restaurant up in Whistler, although I actually prefer it as an accompaniment to tropical fruit desserts like grilled pineapple with ice cream.

That’s it for today, but there are still more patio sippers coming to come.

Cheers,

Josh

www.summerhill.bc.ca

www.hillsideestate.com

www.ironstonevineyards.com

I know that I had promised you an article on Saltspring Island (and it’s still coming) but I wanted to fire off some of the results of last week’s aromatic white wine tastings.  We tasted a lot of different wines so instead of one massive e-mail I’ll send out 3-4 smaller ones in the next couple of weeks.

When we talk about aromatic white wines, we’re referring to white grapes with pronounced aromas and flavours.  These wines can be dry or sweet with varying levels of acidity.  Also, this encompasses a large number of grapes with many different characteristics.  Last week we were able to taste some underappreciated and obscure white grapes – the freaks and geeks with a little something special to offer.

We start our tour in the Marche region of Italy with Marotti Campi “Luzano” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore – Marche, Italy ($19.99  #916098).  Though not really considered as an aromatic varietal, this wine has some great aromatic characteristics.  A floral bouquet with hints of citrus and melon with a little minerality.  The palate is medium bodied with light fruit and almond flavours, great acidity and a crisp, dry finish.  Verdicchio (vehr-DEEK-Kyoh) is a great food grape and I would strongly encourage you to try this and other Verdicchios in our market.

Telmo Rodriguez “Basa” Vino Blanca, 2008 ($18.99  #586016) is from the Rueda region of Spain.  The grapes are the Spanish natives Verdejo (vehr-Day-yoh) and Viura (vee-YOO-rah) with a little Sauvignon Blanc thrown in for good measure.  The nose is light and floral with aromas of grapefruit and green grapes.  The palate is fresh and lively with great acidity and bright fruit flavours.  A medium bodied white wine with a nice long finish this is a perfect ‘tapas on a patio’ wine.

Over to the north of Portugal where the region of Vinho Verde specializes in crisp aromatic whites made from native grape varietals.   Quinta da Aveleda Vinho Verde, 2008 ($13.99  #114223) is no different.  Made from 3 native grapes; Loureiro (loo-REH-roh), Trajadura (trah-jah-DOO-rah) and Alvarinho (ahl-vah-REE-nyoh), this wine has a fresh and light nose with aromas of light tropical fruits and flowers.  A vibrant palate with citrus flavours and green apple with crisp acidity and a refreshing finish.  There is also the presence of light bubbles in the glass.  This is something that is done on purpose in Vinho Verde and just adds to the refreshing appeal of the wine.  I’ve also talked about Vinho Verde wines in Issues two and ten so check them out for some more information.

More aromatic whites coming your way very soon.

Cheers,

Josh

Continuing from last issue we’re talking about new world Chardonnay.  When we say the “new world” in wine speak, essentially we’re talking about everywhere but Europe. I left off talking about the crisp, refreshing style of Chablis where oak is only used as an accent and not as the main event.  Many wineries in the new world produce their own interpretations of the un-oaked Chardonnay style.

I’m still trying to figure out why this shirt is available in men’s sizes.

Alkoomi “Unwooded” Chardonnay, 2008 ($18.99  #917153 Specialty Stores) is from the Frankland River region of South Western Australia.  The wines of this region differ from the most other parts of Australia in that the climate isn’t as hot and the wines tend to be lighter and more elegant.  The wine is crisp and clean with a chalky, clay, mineral nose and a pleasant light aroma of tropical fruits.  The palate has ripe tropical fruit flavours with citrus notes and I like the fresh acidity that guides you into the long fruit driven finish.  A great summer wine from a lesser known Australian wine region.

Let’s continue island hopping and visit the north island of New Zealand.  The region of Hawkes Bay is just south of the middle of the island on the east coast side.  Here, Sauvignon  Blanc takes a back seat as Chardonnay is the dominate white grape.  I like this wine because it shows that Chardonnay is not only great on its own but can also be blended with other grapes which give a different depth of flavours among other qualities.  Paritua Vineyards Mount George “White Wire”, 2008  ($21.99  #888354 Specialty Stores) is mostly Chardonnay, but has little bits of Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Riesling.  Each of these 4 grapes adds their own elements of smell, taste and style.  The nose is bright and slightly perfumed with aromas of peaches, nectarines, tropical and lychee fruit flavours.  The palate is ripe and generous and makes me thing of fruit salad.  This is another un-oaked Chardonnay where the focus is more on the crisp refreshing fruit flavours.  Medium acidity and a light finish make this another perfect summer wine.  This was a pleasant surprise at our tasting and it made people think about the wine as a whole and not just the fact that it was Chardonnay heavy.

We make some pretty damn fine Chardonnay’s here in BC as well.  Chardonnay is a hearty grape and performs well in most climates including the great white north.  We had a couple at our tasting and were impressed by both.  Mission Hill “Reserve” Chardonnay VQA, 2007   ($18.99  #18812) has a big creamy tropical nose with flavours of pineapple, papaya and citrus flavours.  The palate was rich and fruity with more of those tropicals as well as a little poached pear flavour.  Partial oak barrel fermentation coupled with malolactic fermentation and lees aging add big depth and complexity.  A rich mouthfeel with nice acidity and a long finish make this a great Chardonnay for the money.

Lake Breeze “Seven Poplars” Chardonnay VQA, 2008  ($25.00  #353821  Specialty Stores) turned out to be best in show that evening.  The group was most impressed that this Chardonnay came from a BC winery.   I’ve always been a fan of this wine and think that it ranks right up there with the best Chardonnays in BC.  The nose is distinctly oaked with a creamy, buttery flavour, but with some bright citrus and light tropical fruit aromas. The palate is much the same with a great balance of textures and flavours.  Nice acidity and a long creamy finish.  This wine hails from the beautiful Naramata Bench on the south east side of Okanagan Lake.  If you’re wine touring in the Okanagan be sure to give yourself an afternoon checking out the diversity of wineries along the Naramata Bench.

Benziger Chardonnay, 2007  ($27.99 #256388) is an organically grown and biodynamically made wine from the Carneros region of California.  Bright tropical aromas highlight the nose showing pineapple, papaya, banana and peaches with hints of vanilla.  The palate is generous with a tonne of bright fruit and some nice oak flavours.  Soft vanilla and a creamy mouthfeel leading to some acidity and a nice medium length finish.  This isn’t the offensive style of Chardonnay that has turned many off of California. Instead, this is a wine that can bring them back.

those are 5 great Chardonnays that most wine drinkers will enjoy.   Although if you do happen to have a Douchebag on your shopping list I recommend this one here.

The next wine tasting is on the 10th and 11th of June and we’re going to taste some different aromatic white wines.  Get ready for patio season with a fresh batch of summer wines. The cost is only twenty bucks for 6-8 wines and some expert advice.  Click the link on the right for more info.

I may or may not have visited Salt Spring Island recently.  You’ll have to check out the next issue to find out.

Cheers,

Josh

www.alkoomiwines.com.au

www.oceaniawinegroup.com

www.missionhillwinery.com

www.lakebreeze.ca

www.benziger.com

So I’m changing up the format a little bit.  I’ve come to the realization that writing is not easy work.  Even though you have a head full of ideas it always seems much more difficult to get them on the screen.  Motivation can also be a huge factor, especially when you’re not making any money from the writing… yet.  Anyways, I’ve done away with myself imposed deadlines and will make my posts a little smaller.  Maybe splitting one subject into 2 articles or something along those lines.  I’m also going to try to inject a little more fun back into my writing as well… I’m still unsure as to what I mean by that, but I have a feeling that you’ll be seeing more AC/DC videos.

Last month I led a group through a tasting of Chardonnays from around the globe.  At the beginning of the tasting I asked everyone if they drank Chardonnay often, or even at all.  Not one hand went up and I wasn’t the least bit surprised.  Chardonnay has received a bad rap in the past mostly due to the surge of the bold, creamy and very oaky styles that were coming out of California.  What most people don’t know is that Chardonnay is very versatile and can be made into many different styles of wine.  It’s a grape that really adapts well to its terroir.  From lean and crisp to rich and round, including everything in between, there is a Chardonnay out there to suit everyone’s taste.

Chardonnay originates from the Burgundy region of France.  In fact it’s one of only 2 white grapes allowed to be grown in Burgundy (Ok, there is one small appellation where Sauvignon Blanc is grown, but it’s the exception – not the rule). The other grape is the much less interesting Aligoté, and trust me you don’t want me to do an entire article on Aligoté.

Now, I could ramble on about Burgundy and all of its greatness, but I want to save that for another time.  Believe me, there is a lot to know about the region.  Just know that

1. White Burgundy is Chardonnay and

2. White Burgundy is considered to be the greatest expression of the grape

Louis Latour AC Bourgogne Chardonnay, 2007 (#55533  $20.99) is a textbook example of White Burgundy.  The nose is a little subdued with tropical fruit aromas and a bit of minerality.  The palate is much more generous with tropical fruit salad, and a buttery, creamy flavour.  Vibrant acidity, hints of mineral and a smooth creamy finish.  No oak has been used for this wine, but it has gone through 100% malolactic fermentation.  (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malolactic_fermentation)  This is what gives some Chardonnays that creamy, buttery flavour.

When looking at a map of the region you’ll notice that there is an appellation in the North West that isn’t connected to the rest of Burgundy.  This is the wonderful appellation of Chablis.  Here the Chardonnay grape is praised for being a different sort of animal.  Crisp and clean with lots of flint and minerality, the terroir is really what makes Chablis.  This is the Chardonnay for those who prefer something a little more lean and crisp over the oaked, buttery style.

William Fevre “Champs Royaux” AC Chablis, 2007 (#25270  $28.99) has aromas of crisp tart citrus, grassiness and mineral notes.  Fresh, clean acidity with flavours of lemon, lime and tart grapefruit and green apple with a crisp refreshing and delicate finish.  Most of this wine was aged in small stainless steel vats to preserve the freshness, except for 10% that was aged in French oak barrels to add a little depth and complexity to the wine. With its vibrant acidity Chablis makes a terrific food wine, especially with shellfish. 

I’ll be back soon with Chardonnay Part 2 where I’ll be talking about a bunch of Chardonnay’s from everywhere else but France.  Until then, this little nugget of comedic genius should tide you over. http://www.vidstogo.com/player.php?vfname=snl12a&ext=wmv

Our next tasting will focus on aromatic white wines and will take place on Thursday June 10th.  Summer is coming and these are the perfect summer wines.  Just click on the link on the right side of the page.

Cheers,

Josh

www.louislatour.com

www.williamfevre.fr

We’re less than a week away from the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival. The regional theme countries this year are Argentina and New Zealand and the Global Focus wine is Rosé. Because there are so many great wines to mention I’m just going to give you a little background on each country and hope that you make some discoveries on your own.

New Zealand is a relatively young wine-making country but they do things the right way. Focusing on grapes that they excel at has really pushed New Zealand into the ranks of top fine wine making countries. Sauvignon Blanc is the major white grape and Pinot Noir is the leading red. Also grown with success is Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewurztraminer. After Pinot Noir other red grapes that do well in New Zealand are Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The latter two are most commonly seen blended together. Of course there are other white and red grapes grown and used in making wine but these are produced in much lesser quantities.

There are ten major wine growing regions in New Zealand and each region has it’s own specialty The regions are from north to south Northland, Auckland, Waikato/Bay of Plenty, Gisborne, Hawke’s Bay and Wellington on the North Island. On the South Island the regions are Nelson, Marlborough, Canterbury/Waipara and Central Otago. When tasting New Zealand wines at the festival be sure to not only note the grape varietal but also the region Check out Sauvignon Blancs from Marlborough, Pinot Noirs from Central Otago and Syrah from Hawke’s Bay. There are 43 different wineries represented at the festival this year, so there is a great variety of wines to taste and compare.

Wine making in Argentina goes back more than 400 year when Spanish explorers first brought grape vines over from Europe. A proper temperature, long sun exposure sessions, low rainfall levels and humidity, and no strong winds together with exceptional soils, created the best ecological ambiance for the production of top quality grapes. The most important wine regions of the country are located in the provinces of Mendoza and San Juan and La Rioja. Salta, Catamarca, Río Negro.

Malbec is the grape that Argentina has really championed and has been the wine that the country is most known for. Other red grapes grown in large quantities are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, Sangiovese and Pinot Noir. The second most planted red varietal is the lesser Bonarda grape. Known as Chabono in California, Bonarda actually originates from the Savoie wine region in the French Alps. Bonarda is high in tannin and acidity which makes it an excellent grape for blending. Pedro Gimenez is the most widely planted white grape in Argentina and is used to make fortified Sherry style wines rarely seen outside of the country. The second most planted grape is called Torrontes, a grape that originates from the somewhere in the Eastern Mediterranean. The signature white grape of Argentina is crisp and aromatic with an unmistakable floral nose. After that we also see great wines produced from Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Semillion, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Viognier. With 36 different Argentinian wineries at the festival there are many different wines for you to explore.

I talked about Rosé wines back in Issue Number 12 (July 2009) so check out that article to learn a little more about the style. The Playhouse has always wanted to do a focus on Rosé wines but the timing just wasn’t there. Thanks to the Olympics this year the dates for the wine festival were pushed back. This allows us to see many of the 2009 Rosés, some of these being tasted by the public for the very first time. There are loads of Rosé wines in the tasting room so have a blast and “sink the pink”.

Enjoy the festival this year.  I’ll be back soon with upcoming posts on Chardonnay, Port and Sherry.

Cheers,

Josh

www.playhousewinefest.com

www.winesofnz.com

www.winesofargentina.org

AC/DC – Sink The Pink

Back in January, we did a Malbec/Carménère tasting. I wrote about the Malbecs from that tasting in Issue #18. Well, buckle up, because here’s the Carménère side of things.

Carménère (car-min-YEHR) has it’s roots in Bordeaux, France. It was the one of the original 6 red Bordeaux grape varietals, but now is damn near impossible to find anywhere in France. Basically, it caused a lot of headaches in the vineyards. Yields were lower than that of other grapes and it is also more susceptible to diseases than the other grapes grown in the area. In 1867 there was a plague of Phylloxera (a vine destroying insect) that destroyed almost all of the vineyards in Europe. Once eradicated, the vines were replanted, but the Carménère wasn’t around and for a while it was thought to be extinct. Even when Carménère started showing up again, growers in Bordeaux had moved on and weren’t willing to deal with the difficult grape anymore. In France today, there are only a few hundred acres of Carménère planted (by comparison there are 288,370 acres of Merlot). However, there is a bit of a renewed interest in Bordeaux., which is possibly due to global warming as the warmer seasons can help improve on some of the Carménère’s faults.

Though they didn’t realize it until very recently, Chile has been sitting on a whole lot of Carménère, for 150 years or so. When it was first brought over from France, it was planted alongside Merlot. Although it looked a little different and ripened earlier it was just assumed that it was another clone of the Merlot grape. This went on until 1994, when Professor Jean-Michel Boursiquot confirmed that the grape was Carménère and not Merlot. Then, in 1998, Chile’s Department of Agriculture finally recognized Carménère as its own distinct varietal.

We only tasted three Chilean Carménères, but feel free to be adventurous because, as with so many other wines from Chile, there are some excellent values to be had.

The great Chateau Mouton Rothschild winery in Bordeaux, France has branched out to, amongst other places, Chile. Mapu ‘Reserva’ Carménère, 2008 ($13.99 #190645) has a bouquet that is rich and generous. Bright blackberry, raspberry and cherry flavours with hints of spice. The palate echoes the nose, but adds with delicate flavours of chocolate and coffee. Tannins that are medium bodied and silky lead to a short finish with a slight bitterness. This is a terrific wine for the price, which makes it a great one for the rack.

Viu Manent Carménère Reserva, 2008 ($19.99 #596536) was the group’s favourite Carménère. Big, rich black cherry and plum aromas with a dash of herbal notes. A rich palate of black fruit, mocha, leather, cigar box and spices. Smooth, well rounded tannins and a long, lush finish. The complexity in this wine allows you to experience different flavours with every sip. There are some great value wines out of South America, but I think that this wine demonstrates just how much more wine you can get for an extra five dollars.

Due to the fact that Carménère was confused with Merlot for so long, it became an obvious blending partner for Cabernet Sauvignon. Casa Silva “Dona Dominga” Cabernet Sauvignon/Carménère, 2007 ($12.99 #359885) is a blend of 70% Cabernet and 30% Carménère. Ripe red fruit flavours with herbal notes and a hint of caramel. The palate is fresh and fruit forward with light tannin and body with a soft fresh finish. Most of this wine has been aged in stainless steel tanks rather than oak barrels. This attributes to the fresh and bright flavours of the wine. An easy drinking wine that is easy on the wallet is a perfect pairing.

The monthly tastings have been put on hold again as I have a busy month of April. We’ll return again in May. Date and wines to be announced.

The Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival starts on April 19th. Tickets are almost gone, so act fast. Click on the link below for more info.

I’ll be back to you in 2 weeks. Just after my trip to Vegas, so excuse me if it seems a little incoherent.

Cheers,

Josh

www.bpdr.com

www.viumanent.cl

www.casasilva.cl

www.playhousewinefest.com

Hey guys, sorry for delay… let’s just call it an Olympic break. Anyways, I’m back now and will be every second Friday.

Back in November, I led a Sparkling Wine tasting, just before the website went down.  We sampled bubbles from all over the world and I’d like to share the highlights with you.

The “Big Daddy” of sparkling wine is of course, Champagne.  Champagne is French sparkling wine from the Champagne region just east of Paris. I could talk all day about Champagne production, but I’ll spare you and give you the quick-ish version. Champagne is allowed to be made from a combination of 3 grapes, 1 white (Chardonnay) and 2 red (Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier). Not all Champagne utilizes all 3 grapes, but these are the only varietals that are approved. Champagne is first made into a still wine and then bottled. Once in the bottle, yeast and sugar are added and a secondary fermentation takes place. One of the bi-products of this fermentation is carbon dioxide, which gives us the bubbles. Once the yeast has done its work the wine rests on the dead yeast cells (called lees) and soaks up some of their flavour.  After the appropriate amount of aging the lees are removed by a process called disgorgement. Essentially, the neck of the bottle is flash frozen, the bottle is opened and the “plug” of frozen lees is removed without losing any wine. Next is a procedure called dosage, where a small amount of liquid is used to top up the bottle. Generally this is a bit of wine with liquid sugar, although there are a couple of other ingredients that are permitted to be in this mix. This process is essential as it determines the final sweetness of the Champagne.

Seriously, that was the quick version. I know there are a couple of other details involved, so keeners, please don’t bombard me with e-mails. If you want to know even more, feel free to look online – Wikipedia has a good Champagne page. It’s good to note that when you are shopping for Sparkling wine, you should look for the words méthode Champenoise or traditional method. This indicates that the wine has been made in the same style as Champagne.

Real Champagne does come with a price tag, but it is worth the extra dough. Try De Venoge Cordon Bleu Brut Select, NV ($59.99  #207134) for its distinct rich style. Made from all 3 of the classic grape varietals, this Champagne has flint, toast and nuts on the nose and a palate to match. Crisp fruit flavours, firm acidity, vibrant bubble and a long lingering finish.

Cava is Spanish Sparkling Wine made in the Champagne method. Most Cava originates in the Penedes region in the North East of the country, but there are a couple of other small regions around Spain that are authorized to produce Cava as well. It is traditionally made from the native Spanish grapes Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo. Other grapes are now allowed, most notably Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The Cava that we tasted was Pares Balta Organic Cava, NV ($19.99  #366872). Aromas of toasted brioche with crisp apple, pear and almond.  A lively palate with fresh tart fruit that is crisp and refreshing. Fine bubbles give way to a soft and fresh finish.

Sekt is the word that Germany uses for its quality Sparkling Wine. Approximately 95% of all Sekt is made using the Charmat Method. In this method the wine undergoes its secondary fermentation in stainless steel tanks and is then bottled under pressure. Not only is this method less expensive than the Traditional Method, but it is also better suited to certain grape varieties. One of the faves from the night was Dienhard ”Lila” Riesling Sekt, NV ($13.49  #159558). I wrote about it in the Thanksgiving issue (check it out in the archives – POST LINK TO IT HERE)

Prosecco is an Italian Sparkling Wine that also uses the Charmat method. We tasted 2 different Prosecco’s and both were big hits. This sparkling wine is produced in the Veneto region in the North East of Italy, made from the Prosecco grape.

Col de Salici Prosecco IGT Spumante Extra Dry, NV ($24.99  #463166) has a fresh and delicate nose of stone fruits and light floral notes with hints of pistachio and honey. The palate is crisp and slightly tart with flavours of apple, nectarines and minerality and a fresh, easy bubble. I really like the crisp and refreshing floral aftertaste as well.

Valdo Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, NV ($21.00 #550111) has a pronounced green fruit aroma. The palate is light bodied with a hint of sweetness, light refreshing bubbles and a crisp, clean finish. Prosecco is a versatile wine which is perfect as an aperitif or for pairing with seafood, Asian cuisine and more.

We also tasted a sparkler from the Marches region in east-central Italy. Fazi Battaglia Vino Spumante Brut, NV ($19.99 #780122 Specialty Stores) is made from the native Verdicchio grape and has a nose of toasted fruit and nut bread with a hint of bell pepper. The palate has a crisp nuttiness coupled with a dry, fresh taste, crisp acid and a lean dry finish. This wine was a pleasant surprise for the group.

The Summerhill Pyramid Winery in Kelowna specializes in organic wines. I think their best wines are their Sparklers, all made using the Champagne Method. Summerhill Cipes Brut, NV ($24.95  #445288 Specialty Stores) is a Riesling based sparkling wine with aromas of green apple, pear, lime, almond and brioche.  A soft, creamy mouthfeel with hints of tart fruit and nuttiness.  Rich acid and a long, refreshing finish round out this great BC bubbly.

There are two other ways to make Sparkling Wine. One is called the ‘Transfer Method’, which is a modified version of the Champagne method, where after the secondary fermentation the wine in the bottles is transferred to a stainless steel tank. The wine is filtered and dosage is added. Then the wine is filled into new bottles. This method allows for more complexity coming from the blending process.

The other method of production is by simple carbon dioxide injection. Think of a can of cola and then think of Baby Duck (and others).

The next wine tasting is on Thursday, March 25th at the Canadian Pacific Lawn Bowling Club in Victoria. The theme for the tasting will be Chardonnay. From crisp and clean Chablis to the oak and butter bombs of California, we’ll focus on all the different styles.  Drop me an e-mail if you are interested in attending or click on the Tasting Group link on the right.

We’re only five weeks away from the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival. Tickets are on sale right now, but act fast because they do sell out.  I’ll be there working, but may have some time hit the tasting room floor and show you a few things.

I’ll be back in 2 weeks talking about the Carménère grape.

Cheers,

Josh

Hey look, I’m back. It’s been a couple of months, but the site is back up and running. I’m not quite done with the setup of the site so expect a few more minor changes. I was able to post all of the old articles and you can find them in the archive bar on the right. There are also links to the Modern Palate Facebook page as well as our monthly tasting Facebook page. Please click on the links to join and show your support.

The first few articles will focus on the last 3 wine tastings that we’ve done. This article will be on Malbec with subsequebt articles focussing on Carmenere, Sparkling Wine and Fortified Wines still to come.

Malbec is best known for it’s stellar work in Argentina but before we go there we need to know where it’s roots lie.  Malbec is one of the grapes used in the red blends of Bordeaux. After Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, Malbec plays a minor part alongside the grape Petit Verdot.  Historically, Malbec played a larger role in Bordeaux, but that all changed in 1956 when extreme frost killed off 75% of the crops.  The other grapes in the blend faired much better and afterwards many growers weren’t willing to take a chance with a grape that was susceptible to frost damage.  These days it can still be found around Bordeaux, but is used only in limited quantities by a small number of chateau’s.  Malbec still shines in one French region, though. Due east of Bordeaux is a smaller wine region by the name of Cahors (kah-Or) where some fantastic red wines are made.  Here Malbec is the dominant grape, making 100% varietal wines or, more commonly, blended with Merlot or the grape Tannat. Very deep in colour, these wines can be quite rich and intense. Unfortunately, for us, many of these wines are unavailable to us.

One of my favorite Cahors wines is Francois Pelissie Croix du Mayne, 2007 – Cahors, France ($19.99  #115477). One note on the blends of Cahors; by law Malbec must make up at least 70% of the wine.  This one is a mix of  85% Malbec and 15% Merlot.  Deep purple in colour with a red fruit and floral aroma.  Black fruit on the palate with hints of sweet plum and minerality.  I like the rich earthy finish on this wine.  This is a characteristic that I think identifies French Malbec from it Argentinean counterparts.

Introduced to Argentina in 1868, Malbec has fast become the grape that has made that country’s wine industry famous.  Argentinean Malbec is deep in colour with intense fruit flavours and a silky texture.  Nestled up against the Andes, the region of Mendoza is the countries largest producer and gives us most of the Malbec that we see in BC.

The thing with Malbec from Argentina is that you can get some great wines at great price. Bodega Norton “Lo Tengo” Malbec, 2009 – Mendoza Argentina  ($12.99  #80986) shows us that good wine doesn’t have to come with a big price tag.  Soft yet vibrant aromas of fresh red fruits and spice.  The palate is fruity and luscious with cherry and blackberry flavours and a fresh and lively finish.  Great value Malbec from a top producer.

One thing that I like about Malbec is that it doesn’t necessarily need oak to produce a good quality wine.  Case in point is Enrique Foster “IQUE” Malbec , 2007 – Mendoza, Argentina ($17.99  #795153) which is meant to be enjoyed young to highlight it’s fresh fruit characteristics.  Intense ruby colour with aromas of fresh red and black fruits.  Rich berry flavours in the mouth with hints of spice.  Soft fruit tannins without the influence of oak and a long, lush finish.  A great wine with body for those that don’t nescesarily care for the flavours that oak can bring to the wine.

One of the faves of the group was newcomer Renacer “Punta Final” Malbec, 2008 – Mendoza, Argentina ($15.99  #455980).  Built in 2004, and with the help of Tuscan winemaker Alberto Antonini, Renacer is quickly making a name for itself.  Antonini was senior winemaker at both Frescobaldi and Antinori, two of Tuscany’s largest and best known wineries.  The wine is bold and expressive with strong black fruit aromas.  The palate is filled with blackberry, raspberry and fig flavours.  A touch of oak, firm tannins and long smooth finish.  This is a very well balanced and well made wine.

Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec, 2007 – Mendoza Argentina ($22.99 #478727) was the big hitter of the group.  Big, rich and velvety with a nose of black forest cake, coffee and ripe plum.  A bold and layered palate showing flavours of black fruit and mocha.  The oak is apparent, but not intrusive and the smooth, medium bodied tannins round out the focused mouth feel.  The finish is long and rewarding and keeps you wanting more.

We’ll be doing a Chardonnay tasting in March. We’ll look at everything from the crisp and minearlly wines of Chablis to the big, buttery examples from California. The dates are still TBA, but join the Facebook page for the most up to date information.

There is a great food and wine event taking place in Parksville at the end of the month. Parksville Uncorked will feature wine tasting events as well as a number of winemaker’s dinners and more. Click on the link at the bottom of the page for more information. I’m hoping to make it myself and would love to see you there.

It’s great to be back and I’ll talk to you all again in 2 weeks.

Cheers,

Josh

www.bodegarenacer.com.ar

www.bodegafoster.com

www.catenawines.com

www.norton.com.ar

www.parksvilleuncorked.com